The Pottery Post Blog
 

Pruning Succulents



 8646-Prune-Succulents

You just purchased or better yet created your own succulent garden container.  It is sitting in the middle of your patio table looking marvelous.  Then one day you notice that it's looking a bit unruly and you figure out that they are growing.  Even though potted succulents are slow grows they do GROW!  All plants even succulents will eventually need to be re-potted.  In the meantime how about giving them a little trim?  Here's a few tips to help.

 8649-Succulents

Pruning a potted succulent container is pretty simple.  Start by keeping the container clean of dead leaves or buds that have fallen off.  As you succulent starts to grow new leaves you need to remove the bottom ones closest to the soil.  If you don't the soil will not dry out completely between watering and the leaves will start to rot.  Just pinch them off with your fingers.  Did you know that removing leaves like this can encourage new growth in most potted plants?

 8650-Pruning-Succulents

Now to the pruning part.  Succulents do best if pruned at the beginning of their growing season.  Spring time is the best time but that doesn't mean you can't prune though out the rest of the year, it just means Spring is best.  If your arrangement is grouped closely together you may need scissors or tweezers to get between the leaves without smashing them trying to move them out of the way.

 8648-Potted-Succulents

It goes without saying that this is a good time to remove any plants that look sick or dead.  You can fill in gaps with new plantings or cuttings off your existing succulents.   The last step we like is what we call pot topping.  Use decorative rock to cover the soil of the arrangement.  It really adds a lovely touch and gives the planter a finished look.

[Read More] Indoor Tropical Potted Plants
[Read More] Potted Pomegranate Trees
#succulents #succulentcontainer #gardenpottery #planters #pots
succulents, potted succulents, pruning succulents, prune succulents



By
Post Last Updated: 11/27/2017 11:08:25 AM 

January 2014 Checklist!



 31133-Title
 
What to plant this time of year?  Just when everything looks bleak and bare we have some good suggestions for still getting out there and working the yard!

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Bare root deciduous fruit trees - continue planting them thru February. Encourage reliable fruit tree harvest by choosing varieties that require less then 400 hours of chilling, a normal period of cold weather necessary for trees to produce fruit.

Proven performers include 'Anna' and "Dorsett Golden Apple".  Gold Kist Apricot, Santa Rosa Plum, Tropic Snow white flesh peach and Wonderful Pomegranate.  Plant them in decorative glazed planters and stage them around your patio area, for color and fragrance.  Yummy!

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Transplant easy to grow sun lovers such as calendula, dianthus, gazania, marigold, pansy and viola.

There is still time to sow cool season culinary favorites such as beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collard and mustard greens, endive, green onions, lettuce, leeks, peas, radishes, spinach and turnips.

Transplant broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower into new larger planters.  Sow or transplant cilantro, dill, garlic, parsley, and thyme.  Use decorative containers to add a bit of pizzazz to your garden or patio area
.

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Prune as needed now.  Spruce up shade trees, conifers and summer blooming shrubs by removing dead, diseased, broken, crossed or weak branches

Cut back established roses by one third.  Wait to prune heritage roses until after spring blooms.  Hold off pruning first tender potted plants like citrus, hibiscus, natal plum and bougainvillea.  Just take your time and keep working it and you will have great success and beautiful potted plants.

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Read more....Bella Vanilla.
Read more....Shrubs plain and simple.


By
Post Last Updated: 12/21/2016 1:16:50 PM 

Now That I have Planted - What Do I Do?




Here are the keys to establishing new plants


1.  Provide Ample Water:  Proper watering is vital to plant survival, but requirements vary.  In clay soils, infrequent yet thorough watering is best, but bear in mind that water will not percolate rapidly through the soil.  In a sandy loam, however, water percolates easily through the soil.  In that case, lower volumn and more frequent watering is best.  To determine if trees should be watered, insert a screwdriver into the soil.  If it penetrates easily, the soil is moist and no water is needed.

2.  Mulch the Root System:  Mulching preserves soil moisture and moderates soil
temperatures, keeping it within the range that roots prefer.  Mulch also controls weeding and helps keep lawn mowers and string trimmers - leading cause of trunk damage - at a distance.  Mulch should be 2 to 4 inches deep and cover the entire planting hole and soil berm. It should not touch the plant.

3.  Delay Fertilizing:  A rule of thumb is that newly planted trees & shrubs should not be fertilized during the first year or two;  the only exception would be those planted in nutritionally poor soils.  Incorrect fertilizing can hurt the root system and damage the plant so follow package directions.

4.  Limit Staking:  The purpose of staking is to prevent the root ball from rocking, not to prevent the top of the tree from swaying in the wind.  For most trees, one or two stakes is sufficient.  Fasten the stake to the trunk with rubber strapping.  All staking should be removed after one year.

5.  Prune Lightly:  Carefully inspect your new plant and remove any dead, broken, or diseased limbs at planting time.  Aside from that, newly planted trees and shrubs need no pruning.  It generally takes one year per inch of trunk diameter when planted for a woody plant to become established, so hold off any structural pruning until then.


By
Post Last Updated: 1/9/2017 4:33:14 PM 



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