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How to plant a Winter container

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22
12/22/2010 9:58:21 AM
A large pot brimming with plants can revitalize a patio in winter.  Start with a small shrub or perennial from a 1-gallon nursery pot, and smaller plants from 4" pots.  Good choices this time of year are primroses and violas.  Then select a colorful ceramic pot!
Step 1

Fill the pot with enough soil so that
the top of the large plant's rootball
sits about 2 inches below the pot's
rim.  Mix in a complete fertilizer
according to package directions.
Tamp soil lightly. Loosen coiled roots
and position the large plant in the
pot's center.
Step 2

Add more soil around the
large plants, then arrange
the remaining plants, also
to sit 2" below the pot's rim.
Fill in remaining gaps with
soil and water well.

Easy!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:10:17 PM 
 
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Around your garden in December

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21
12/21/2010 10:52:59 AM
Right now it may seem like there isn't much you can be doing around your garden.  The cold has set in and the snow has flown.  Let us make a few suggestions that you may find interesting.

Grow Poinsettias NOW

These flowers have Southern roots - they're named after Charlestonian Joel Poinsett.  Purchase early for best selection.  You cannot miss with the classic red, but they are also available in whites, pinks, and marroons.  Poinsettias like warmth.  As soon as you buy your plant, get it into the car quickly to limit any exposure to the cold.  Care is simple.  Place in an area with bright, indirect light. There is no need to fertilize; they are already in bloom.  Water them like most any houseplant.  When the top of the soil feels slightly dry, remove the plant from its decorative container or ceramic pottery and water it thoroughly in the sink.  Let any excess water drain before returning it to your container.  Do not let plants sit in saucers of water.

Feed the Birds

Bird feeders, birdhouses, birdbaths, and birdseed all make great gifts for your gardening friends.  You can also work birdhouses into your holiday displays.  Check out our birdhouses and feeders.  They are decorative, functional and fun!

Note:  December 21 2010 marks the end of fall and the beginning of winter.  It is a great time to look and learn the bones of your landscape.  Think of your yard as a room.  Where are the walls, ceiling, and floor?  Do you need to add a hedge, shade tree or garden path?

Add Mulch

Evergreens such as azaleas, boxwoods, hollies, and camellias appreciate a little extra protection during the cold winter days ahead.  After the first frost, add a 2" layer of pine straw or finely shredded pine bark mulch around the bases of these shrubs.  Don't forget to top your garden pots also.  The mulch will help with warmth, and protection!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:09:42 PM 
 
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Do you have this problem?

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16
12/16/2010 9:49:24 AM
Cats are notorious potted plant-eaters.  How can we indulge our love of healthy indoor greenery while responsibly keeping a pet cat?  It's important that you take the necessary steps to prevent your cats from eating houseplants, not just because you don't want the plants to die, but primarily because many common houseplants are toxic to cats!

Teaching your cats to avoid houseplants can be a matter of survival.

First  - you need to consult a list of toxic houseplants to see if you have any in your home.  If you insist on keeping a toxic plant try hanging it or put it in an inaccessible window sill.  Make sure it doesn't drop leaves where a cat can eat them.

Secondly - make sure your cat's diet is sufficient and they are not lacking in fiber, vitamins etc. 

Next - look for ways to train your pet not to approach the plant.  Try spraying with water when he goes for the plant.  Unfortunately, you are not always there so you can try to make the plant smell or taste repulsive to your pet.  Use both smell and taste repellents like hot sauce, chili oil and vinegar.  The best part of this is the assurance that it will still work when you are not present. 

Lastly - make sure the problem isn't emotional.  Like all of us, cats can respond to stress or emotional strain by acting out in a variety of ways.  Examine the living conditions.  If you detect any potential source, like other cats, new baby in the house, being negelected or lonely - try to neutralize it.  Do whatever it takes!

Though the disciplinary methods enjoy some success, no one really enjoys disciplining their furry friends.  And besides, it hardly seems fair to spray your kitty with water if his behavior is a result of dietary needs.  So buy a cat garden and spend more quality time with your cat before resorting to the unpleasant discipline actions.

With a little thought and patience, you can figure out why your sweet pet is eating houseplants and put an end to it!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:09:12 PM 
 
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Winter care for houseplants

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15
12/15/2010 9:20:10 AM
Station houseplants properly, providing each plant with the recommended amount of sunlight.

Throughout winter, water plants when the soil in each pot container becomes dry.  Mist plants several times each week.  Something as simple as misting really does make a big difference. 

Because indoor heat is extremely tough on houseplants, prevent problems by washing plant stems and foliage regularly with warm soapy water and rinsing thoroughly.  If insects are present on a plant, spray the foliage with an insecticidal soap, mixing and applying the solution according to lable directions.  After a couple of weks, if necessary, repeat the insecticidal treatment.  Treat persistend infestations of ahpids and mealy bugs by rubbing foliage with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol.  Apply the treatment sparingly because alcohol is capable of damaging tender foliage.

To leach salt from houseplants, select a nice day and move the houseplants outside.  Flood the soil in each container until water overflows.  Scrub down the outside of containers to remove the white salty residue.

Before transporting houseplants back inside, remove all dried or yellowed foliage, allow all excess water to drain thoroughly, and empty all the saucers.

Now is the time to check the planter for cracks.  Replace any damaged unslightly containers with new fresh designs.  Something as simple as a new plant container can make a huge difference in the feel of the room where you keep your plants.
Of course, we recommend shopping at ArizonaPottery for all your pottery needs.  The idea of shopping in winter from the comfort of your home is very inviting this time of year!

With the wide selection we carry and new styles arriving all the time, you should be able to find everything you need to make your own houseplants shine.  Try mixing materials like metal, ceramic, clay etc and find the look that fits your style.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:08:43 PM 
 
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Winter Arrangements

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13
12/13/2010 2:13:33 PM
This time of year you will see exterior creations overflowering with evergreen scent and colorful bursts of the unexpected.  Much of the greenery found in these containers are pieces located in your yard or garden.  Spruce and cedar branches are tucked nicely into wet floral foam along with pinecones and berry branches.  As the season progresses all you need to do is remove branches past their prime and you will still have a full arrangement left.

In the photo to the left, you will see many textures abound from spruce, silver fir, Port Orford cedar, juniper and 'Stoneham gold' cedar branches accented by orange-hue eucalyptus, caspia and Southern magnolia leaves.

You tend to think because it is so cold and out of blooming season why bother but as you can see, some attention to minor details can really make a huge difference.

Take a potted Fraser fir (photo below)merry with dried artichokes and pear gourds, dyed eucalyptus, caspia, astilbe seed pods, dried hydrangea blooms and pinecone garland and place in a decorative planter and you have a stunning - yet simple and easy to do idea.  Many of these products can be purchased in the floral department in major craft stores.  Be creative and try different dried fruit and veggies along with your greens for the most interesting effects.

If you are expecting holiday houseguests then why not place a fun container overflowing with evergreens and winter plant accents for your garden, on the front porch and provide instant hospitality and a genuine welcome.  Use a vintage wheelbarrow, antique wash tub or kids sleigh.  

Great Tip - Though howling winds, ice and snow are formidable enemies, many arrangments can last all winter.  To prevent containers from cracking as temperatures fluctuate, insert arrangements in place line pots atleast 1" smaller than your container.  That way if the temps hit freezing you won't crack or damage your decorative container.

By The Pottery Lady
Post Last Updated: 12/15/2010 11:08:02 AM 
 
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How to Force Paperwhites

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9
12/9/2010 9:21:53 AM
Coax the sweet spring-flowering bulbs into winter bloom in pebble and water filled glass bowls.
Fragrant, snowy white flowers atop grasslike foliage make paperwhites (Narcissus)favorite indoor plants in winter.

Forcing the bulbs to bloom for the holidays - ahead of their normal spring cycle - couldn't be easier.  Just nestle a few bulbs among pebbles in a water filled bowl and set them in a cool place with bright daylight until buds start to swell (typically in 3 to 4 weeks).  Then disply them on an entry table, coffee table or dining table in clusters.

Unlike some bulbs, paperwhites don't require chilling, so you can force them as soon as you get them  They will bloom for up to two weeks.

In order to get a bloom by Christmas you should start by late November.

Step 1 - Pour about 1" of pebbles into the bottom of the bowl.  Set the bulbs on the pebbles, leaving about 1/4" between them.

Step 2 - Add more pebbles around the bulbs to cover at least the lower two-thirds of each bulb.  (Paperwhite roots are vigorous and can push bulbs out of their containers, so it's important to nestle bulbs firmly among the stone.) Tops of bulbs should sit just above the rim of the bowl.

Step 3 - Fill the bowl with water just up to the base of the bulbs, then put it in a cool place (40 to 50 degrees at night) with bright daylight.  Check daily and keep water level at base of bulbs as roots and foliage grow.

To minimize floppy foliage (classic paperwhites grow 14 to 18 inches tall) display the blooming bulbs in a cool place (60 degrees is ideal) with bright indoor light.  Another way to help keep foliage from flopping is to add alchol to the water, using a formula developed by Cornell University researchers:  After roots develop and stems have grown about 2" tall, replace the water in the bowl with a mix of 1 part 80 proof liquor (gin or vodka) to 7 parts water.  Continue using the mix for the rest of the the growing season. 

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:08:18 PM 
 
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Focal Points in your garden

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8
12/8/2010 3:40:46 PM
Whether it's a view, a specimen plant, or a favorite vessel you want  people to notice, focal points draw attention and lead the eye from one distinct area or object to the next.  They pull you in for a while before you're lead off to enjoy other parts of the landscape or, better yet, another captivating combination.  Without them, your garden is absent of focus and direction.

Container combinations are often the focal points in many gardens.  Their artistic and architectural features act as punctuation marks to make one pause; to add emphasis; or to establish an end to a particular area, a grouping of plants, or a garden destination.  Containers can bring a sense of unity to areas.

Sometimes part of your landscape just needs a little extra spice.  Container plantings can offer a quick fix by directing attention their way, making the sometimes lack-luster garden act as the backdrop.

Get the best of both worlds with high impact, low input plants!

The large, low profile glazed bowl (shown above) works well, providing the right level of interest.  Succulents are all about high impact with low input.  The textured paddle plant (1) grabs attention even from a distance, while the vertical African milk tree (2) adds needed height.  A smaller succulent grouping balancess the design without competing with the focal point.  (3)  Midnight Aloe  (4) Peacock echeveria  (5) Dwarf Jade.

The bowl is large and glazed with a rough texture.  It is sturdy and can handle the large plants shown.  The rock top-dressing really helps to keep the soil moist during the warmer months and also adds charm and texture.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:07:47 PM 
 
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Holiday & Gift Plants

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6
12/6/2010 1:24:23 PM
How many people have received holiday & plant gifts - azaleas (shown above), lilies, gardenias, minature roses, mums, rosemary trees - only to have them wither after a week or two?  Many people then decide that they don't have a green thumb and give up on gardening.  The reality is that most gift plants have been foreced into bloom out of season or with such exacting conditions that even the most expert gardeners have a tough time keeping them alive.
Consider these plants to be longer lasting than cut flowers, but not permanent.  If you keep them alive longer than a month, pat yourself on the back.
 
If you want to give a plant that will last, visit a nursery with a knowledgeable staff and ask for their advice.  The answer you get will depend upon the season, what is in bloom at the time, and what grows well in your climate.  Consider an easy-care housplant, especially during the winter months.  Include care instructions.  To make it extra special - don't forget to slip it into a beautiful Arizona Pottery ceramic or clay pot

By The Pottery Lady
Post Last Updated: 12/22/2010 10:32:36 AM 
 
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Live Christmas trees make memories

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30
11/30/2010 11:20:30 AM
Size:  Think small.  Really small.  If you're used to a 7' tall tree commanding a quarter of your living room, think again.  First of all, subtract at least 18" from the height of the tree for the root ball - in other words, you would be decorating a 5' tall tree.  Then consider that you'd need half a football team to carry the tree into the house.  A tree that size may weight 100 pds or more.  Also, think about the pot that you are planting in.  We suggest moving the planter into the home first and then setting the live tree inside once you have positioned it where you want it.  Be prepared to move the potted tree outside once the holidays are over. 

Time spent indoors: Evergreen trees don't go completely dormant in winter, but they come close to it.  If you bring the tree indoors for a month, it will start to break dormancy.   Then, when you plant it outside in January it may suffer freeze damage.  Plan to keep it indoors for a week and no more than 10 days, preferably in the coolest room out of direct sunlight.

Future size:  Most spruces, firs, and pines get big - really big - as in 50 to 100 feet tall.  Can your yard accommodate such a large tree?  You can keep they trees in the original container for a few years, but they will soon outgrow even the largest planter.

If you have your heart set on a big tree but want to plant a living one, too, here's one way to have your tree and plant it too.  Buy a small live tree, decorate it, and display it outdoors, on your front porch or wherever you like.  Have a second cut tree in the house for the holidays.

Another option is a dwarf evergreen.  They are a good choice where space is limited.  Just read the plant tags carefully because the term dwarf is relative.  Lastly, you can always decorate a houseplant.  It's the thought that counts!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:07:05 PM 
 
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How to help garden wildlife survive Winter

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29
11/29/2010 3:28:18 PM
It is vitally important to ensure that the bird feeder is kept chock full during the winter months.  At Arizona Pottery we have many wonderful & unique feeders.  Besides feeders we have a extensive line of bird houses that will help to keep your little friends protected during the winter months. 

Add a suet ball too, as the fat gives much needed energy.   Birds appreciate fruit and berries so if you find yourself with a windfall of apples just leave a few on the ground or bird feeder for the birds to find.  If there isn't a bird bath in the gardenit would be a good idea to install one, checking for ice daily.  Apart from providing drinking water, the birds can also keep their feathers clean, thus ensuring good heat insultation.

You spend all spring and summer catering to these sweet animals - don't give up on them just because it's winter.
If you are lucky enough to have frogs in your garden then now is the time to repay all their hard work in keeping slugs and bugs at bay.  Provide a rock pile for these garden friends so that they can shelter from the cold.  Place it near a pond if you have one and make sure it faces north to avoid extreme temperatures.
All nooks & crannies around the garden are shelter havens for hibernating insect life.  Butterflies dream away the winter in garages & sheds.  Under the bark of logs are lacewings, wasps and ladybirds.  To ensure insect survival, refrain from cleaning out these areas.  Save it till Spring when everything is awake.
Nearly half of hedgehogs die from starvation during winter.  They need a warm place to hibernate, so providing a leaf pile is a good idea.  Even better make a hedgehog home.  Just remember that once winter sets in cease feeding them so they will hibernate.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:06:20 PM 
 
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Consider Climate when planting containers

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29
11/29/2010 1:13:10 PM
Climate plays a role in container gardening because it depends on what you're growing and when your growing it.  You don't need to worry about winter if you are into single-season containers.  However its still important to know when the weather has warmed up enough in spring so it's safe to set out tender plants that can't tolerate frost.

If however, your containers are filled with permanent plants - perennials, trees, and shrubs - then you need to tune in more carefully to the regions climate.  In most cases, winter temperatures are the deciding factor in what will survive in your climate.

A great tip to remember is that growing plants in containers allows you to grow plants that otherwise may not survive in your climate if you are willing to take extra steps to protect them in extreme temps - like moving them to protected spots.

As you already know, container plants are more vulnerable to extreme temps (especially cold) than the same plant growing in the ground.  Soil temps rarely drop below the 20's but because of the soils residual heat.  The soil in containers can freeze solid when exposed to cold temps.  Temperatures that alternate between freezing and thawing post another challenge.  On a sunny winter day they soil may thaw and then at night refreeze when the temperatures drop.  Once soil freezes again it expands and push plants up out of the soil.  This is the time that a ceramic or clay pay will crack.

Knowing the frost dates for your region is kind of like peering into a crystal ball.   If you move your containers to a sheltered place for the winter, the plants may being sprouting earlier in spring than they would have had they wintered outdoors.  Then, if you bring the plants outdoors before the last spring frost date the chances are good that the new growth will be nipped by frost.  To be safe, if overwintering plants have begun to sprout in their sheltered spot, wait until after the last frost date to bring them outdoors.

To be totally successful, you really do need to keep an eye on the weather, especially in fall when cold snaps can threaten warm season plants.  We advise you move small containers into a garage or enclosed porch, where temps stay a few degrees warmer than outdoors.  Move them back when the threat has passed.

Cover large planters with old sheets, cardboard boxes, or anything that holds heat.  Use stakes to prop up the cover to avoid breaking stems.  Extend covering all the way to the ground, and secure it around the base of the container to help hold in the heat.  Remove covers the next morning once temps warm up to the 50's.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:05:44 PM 
 
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5 Tips for overwintering containers

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15
11/15/2010 3:07:21 PM
You did it again:  You bought plants that aren't hardy.  Although winter is approaching, you don't need to toss out your plants.  Overwintering these must haves can be a painless procedure.  Just follow a few simple tips for moving the outdoors in.
1 - Give plants a trim - clean out any debris, and prune plants back a bit for their winter vacation.  This will help them conserve energy, get them ready to regenerate new growth the following season, and bring them down to a house friendly scale.
2.  Leave pests outside -  look under and on top of your plants leaves for any small insect pests or potential diseases.  Then, look at the soil.  If you find any suspect creatures, treat the problem with an organic pesticide to prevent bringing pests indoors.
3.  Remove unwanted plants - you'll most likely be overwintering one piece of a combo rather than the entire container planting.  Remove any unwanted plants, like annuals, and replenish the potting mix.  Repot plants in a more suitabley sized container if necessary.
4.  Make a gradual transition - Humidity and lighting drastically change when you move plants indoors.  Gradually transition them by placing them in a shady outdoor location, such as under a patio overhang, for a week or two before moving them indoors.
5.  Cut back on care - Ease off the fertilizer until spring, and scale watering way back.  Wait to water plants until the soil is dry.  Occasional misting, however, is a good idea to promote humidity, which most plants - especially topicals - love.

By The Pottery Lady
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:05:11 PM 
 
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Let in Autumn - Part 2

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28
10/28/2010 10:47:50 AM
In the last blog post we discussed that many gardeners throw in the towel this time of year and forget their gardens till next spring.  We had many wonderful suggestions for planted items that you can put into your garden pots for a colorful and beautiful fall display.

Below you will find a few more suggestions that we think are stunning!
This small but well rounded arrangement on my patio contains lush, persistent perennials and evergreen foliage.  Dashes of yellow and gold weave the plants together into a colorful, textural taperstry.  A mere 2 feet tall, this container is great next to a step or a back-door entry - or as a wonderful gift.
Ornamental edibles are a favorite plant for many because they are easy to design with.  Plus, containers lift the veggies up to you, so you can get your garden fix without having to bend  over all the time.  Many vegetables, such as peppers, can grow happily in containers all season long.  With the right fertilizer - perferably organic and made for this purpose - they won't mind being in a pot.  They may actually perfer it.

In a season where so much foliage is deciduous, we find it refreshing to know that we can grow evergreen rosemary and parsley.  These are two of the most essential herbs in many recipes, and with just a little protection from the elements, they will grow wonderfully through the winter.  They both thrive in a relatively small pot that gets pulled inside during the worst weather - which gives me the incentive to pick up what you need to make potato soup and rosemary bread.  Yummy!
This combo boasts deep greens separated by lighter greens, and though not obvious at first - the three tiered spiral of this red cedar is complemented by a reverse spin of underplanted perennials and false holly.  This turn gives the arrangement balance and interest, even after flowers fade or die.
A mugo pine can transform into an Asian bonsai with no trimming or training.  Its natural, stunted growth and good looks are enough to draw attention.  It's paired with a creeping wire vine, which will persist until next spring, even if it freezes back to the soil.  Topdressing the pot with gravel with keep it looking nice when the perennials go dormant.

Well we hope this gives you some great and easy ideas on how to plant in container pots for the fall months.  The main thing is to just experiment, try new things and have fun! 

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:04:48 PM 
 
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Let in Autumn - Part 1

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25
10/25/2010 2:29:07 PM
Are you one of the gardeners who believe that fall & winter are the time to throw in the towel and forget your garden till next spring?  Arizona Pottery suggests this be a time to get going on creating cool-weather combos in your garden pots.

If your hardier summer containers are kept watered and healthy, all you will need to do to perk them up for the fall season is add some ornamental grass.  If you use dwarf grasses you can tuck them in anywhere.  After sprucing up your containers, this is the time to match fruit and berries with flowers and foliage.  This is the time for evergreen bushes and fruiting shrubs.  There is nothing nicer in the dead of winter to look out a window and see living green things.
Create them now so you can sit back and enjoy them thru the coming winter.
Who says that all the plants in a mix have to have the same growing conditions?  Plants are pretty amazing with their adaptability to various conditions.  The above combo, pairs a mix of plant needs, from moisture loving agunga to semi drought tolerant Chinese mahonia.  If the mix looks good - we say go for it!
Chrysanthemums need friends - those companion plants that meld a combo together.  By adding a splash of lemongrass, you will spice up even themost mundane mum.  Grasses of all sizes are a natural fit with mums.  Frosted Curls sedge and a few seasonal pumpkins complete this fall combo.
What better container ingredients are there than those you can admire and eat, too?  Many leafy greens and veggies have beautiful foliage color, last all summer, and pack a flavorful punch.  Just use safe potting mixes and fertilizers because you don't want toxins showing up in your salad bowl.
You can soften the sharp, anugular points of a patio or deck with a full, lush container.  Use pots to offset the often monotone brown of a full deck or slate gray of a concrete patio.  This lavendar combo is twice as effective set against a backdrop of orange fall leaves.

We have a few more ideas to share - so check out the Let in Autumn Part 2 coming next!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 4:04:28 PM 
 
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Bulb Barriers

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12
10/12/2010 1:40:20 PM
This article was found in Gardening How To and we thought it was important information and should be passed along.

There's something wonderful about planting bulbs.  No matter how cold it is outside, you get a taste of spring when you kneel in the dirt to settle your future flowers into their new homes.  You can already visualize your hard work paying off in a neighbor-stopping show of flowers after months of winter brown.

Too bad our spring dreams are so often spoiled by hungry critters.  Animals can detect fresh bulbs in the ground, and they'll head over to your newly dug beds for a tasty snack as soon as you go inside for a cup of coffee.

Luckily, there are lots of things you can do to protect your bulbs.  Here are a few tips that are both effective and nontoxic - they won't harm humans, pets, or wildlife.
The easiest way to keep squirrels, deer, mice, and other creatures from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they don't like.  Animals love the taste of tulips and crocuses far more than any other bulbs.  Others, like daffodils, alliums, and fritillaries, taste or smell so awful that critters leave them alone.
The bad news is, of course, that you'd have to go without tulips and crocuses to be truly safe from critters.  And for a lot of gardeners, spring just isn't spring without these two beauties.  If you're in this catagory, don't worry - you can still plant your favorites.   You'll need to rig up a barriers to keep pestes from digging up your bulbs.

Once you've placed the bulbs, spread a length of chicken wire over the top of them, tucking the edges into the soil.  Then cover everything with soil just like you normally would.  The wire won't be visible, and the bulbs will easily send up shoots throught the spaces in the wire.  Be sure to get rid of all your planting debris, especially any leftover bulb tunics, which smell good and will atract squirrels like crazy.

A less tidy but equally effective strategy is to lay old window screens on top of your newly planted bulb beds.  The screens are too heavy for squirrels to move and too difficult to dig through.  But they allow for good air circulation and rainfall.  Remove the screens after three or four weeks, when the new-bulb smell has dissipated and the ground has settled.

Don't have screens?  For smaller areas, use boards or pot bases weighted down with rocks to cover beds until curious squirrels have moved on to other things.
Some gardeners skid barriers altogether and give their bulbs a protective suit of armor by dipping them in solutios like Bulb Gurard and Ropel.  These products make bulbs taste and smell bad so that so that a wide range of critters, including squirrels, gophers, and voles, will leave the alone.
Keep fall foraging squirrels away from bulbs by giving them other things to munch on.  Feeders that offer peanuts or dried corn are a good choice.
If you love tulips and don't want to worry about whether squirrels will devour your bulbs, try purchasing potted, pre-grown tulips in the spring.  They are available at garden center once the weather warms up, these tulips will likely be safe from squirrels, who forage much less in spring than fall.  Once they're in the ground, treat them like you would any other tulip in your garden.

By The Pottery Lady & Meleah Maynard
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:54:07 PM 
 
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Color in your Fall Garden

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12
10/12/2010 11:13:34 AM
In this case we want to start with the plants and then choose the container.  A 16" wide planter pot is a good size to start with.  Many of the plants suggested below will need this space to grow.  Choose a muted fall color like gold, olive green, & maroon to off-set the brightness of the fall plant materials you select.

Cluster the containers with different sizes and shapes in threes or plant a single pot with three kinds of plant materials.  These will produce the best looking displays.

When it comes to the plant materials - go for a dramatic impact not a fussy colorful display. Go for foliage not flowers and different colors of leaves.   Add some variegated green or bronze & copper grasses to compliment the plant materials.

Grays, gray-green, blue-greens and nongreen greens are all good choices.  They are cool and soothing looking.  Besides color, go for foliage texture, leaf size and whether the foliage is evergreen or changes seasonally.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:53:38 PM 
 
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More information about "The Secret to Bulbs"

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5
10/5/2010 11:10:02 AM

ulbs are a delight in any bed or border, but perform beautifully in pots and windowboxes.  Whether you have a small garden, a large one that is out of room, or you simply prefer the ease and convenience of planter containers, you will love the color and impact they add.  Suggess requires planning and attention, but the vivid results are worth the effort.  Below are some tips on getting the best results.

 The size of the pottery container you use is dermined by the number of bulbs you want to plant.  Regardless of diameter, your container should have at least an 8" depth, with drain holes on the side if possible instead of the bottom.  Self watering pots are NOT recommended.

 Soil should be light and loamy, well drained and moisture-retentive.  Garden soil is NOT recommended.  A soil-less blend comprised of sphagnum moss and vermiculite or perlite with some finished compost is ideal.

 A too wet condition is the most common cause for bulbs failing to bloom.  For best drainage, line the plant container bottom with 1 - 2 inches of stone or broken pots.  This helps to keep the soil from sitting in water.

 Plant a variety of early, midseason and late blooming bulbs in the same pot for an endless supply of color. 
 After planting the bulbs in the pottery, water the container thoroughly.  Don't allow soil to dry out completely during winter.  If storing in a covered area, such as a shed or garage, water enough to maintain "barely moist" soil - about once a month.

 If you live in an area where winter temperatures regularly fall below 32 degrees, you will need to protect your potted bulbs from freezing.  They do best when stored in a location that remains 32 to 45 degrees like an attached garage or unheated basement.

 If you live in an area where winter temps typically do not fall below 32 degrees, you can leave the containers outside with no special attention.
Prepare the pot:
Starting in the fall, select a pot at least 8" across.  If the pot will be sitting on a deck or patio, select one at least 16" across.  Terracotta pots will crack if they freeze, so use concrete, high fired ceramic, poly resin or fiberglass.  They are all made to withstand cold temperatures.
Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils should be about 8" deep, and smaller bulbs like hyacinth about 5" deep.  Put a few inches of Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting MIx in the bottom of the pot to receive the first layer of bulbs.
Plant the bulbs:
Place a layer of larger bulbs first.  Plant close together, even touching for a nice effect.  Place tulips with the flat side toward the outside of the pot so the first leaf will curl over the side.  Tulips and daffodils and most other bulbs, are planted pointed side up.  If you aren't sure, look for hairy root stubs and place them down.  Add 3" of potting mix and plant a layer of smaller bulbs.  Add another 2" inches and plant dwarf iris if you are including them, then cover with a final 2" of soil.  This should bring the soil to near the edge of the pot.  Water the pot well and set it outside to chill.
Chill the bulbs:
Spring flowering bulbs need a period of at least 10 weeks at temperatures around 45 degrees to trigger blooming.  Place the pots where they will be in this temperature.  This might be outside in the yard, or in an unheated garage or basement.  If they are not exposed to rain or snow, check them every few weeks and water slightly if the soil is dry.

Enjoy your flowers:
Set outside as soon as shoots appear.  Place them in full sun and let them grow.  In a few weeks you will be rewarded with beautiful blooms.

We hope you find this information useful.  When it comes to getting the biggest bang for your buck in the garden or patio area - we want to make sure you all the information you need.  Happy Planting!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:53:11 PM 
 
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Grow daffodils in Arizona Pottery POTS

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29
9/29/2010 3:58:44 PM
 1.  Start with a BIG ARIZONA POT - A pot that is at least 16" wide and almost as deep will give you the best display.  It can accommodate about 40 bulbs.  We like our terracotta Italian Rolled Rim Pot (shown below).  It is made of clay so it breathes, it comes in many sizes and it is beautiful.
2.  Choose a fun variety of bulbs.  Shop for bulbs at your local nursery, by mail or on the internet for the best choices.  You can buy unnamed bulbs in bulk bags at your nursery - they're less expensive than named varieties sold individually.
3.  Buy healthy bulbs.  Avoid ones that are soft, squishy, or moldy.
4.  Plant them close.  Fill the clay or ceramic pot with loose, fast draining soil mix to within 5" of the rim, then place bulbs atop the soil, pointy side up (roots sprout from the round end).  Set them almost shoulder to shoulder, and cover them with 4" of potting soil.
5.  Shade the garden pot.  Water well after planting, then set the planting container aside in a shaded area.  After green shoots appear in late winter or early spring, resume watering and move the garden pot to a sunny spot.



By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:52:31 PM 
 
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Think Ahead - Plant daffodil bulbs now!

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23
9/23/2010 4:44:22 PM
    Daffodils - One of spring's most popular icons, these classic beauties comprise hundreds of members of the genus Narcissus.  They are simple to grow,  need little more than full sun, moist soil, and occasional feeding with a standard garden fertilizer.

    This time of year finds many gardeners and gardens pretty tired.  But, if you plan ahead and plant some bulbs now - it will pay off come next Spring.  Daffolids are hardy depending on the variety, making them suitable for nearly all of the U.S. & Canada.  Certain types won't flower for lack of winter chilling, but Southern gardeners needn't fret - just by those labeled as suitable for Southern gardens.

    Daffodils that multipy each year, or "naturalize," are popular because they eventually form masses of color.  Many varieties do so, but not all, so confirm before purchasing.  Popular growers include 'Carlton', 'Tete-a-Tete', 'Mount Hood', and 'Dutch Master', a newer version of the famous yellow 'King Alfred'.

     If large old clumps cease blooming, they need to be divided.  Dig them up after they die back in summer, split them into individual bulbs, and replant.  Or, pay it forward by giving them away - it's a great way to share some spring joy with fellow gardeners.
   As you can see from the photo above, we love bulbs planted in pots. Potted bulbs make it easy to decorate with and create different looks in your garden or patio areas.  They are also easy to move so that they get the amount of sun required to grow.  The pots shown are simple terracotta pots and Arizona Pottery sells the best on the market.  Our's come to us directly from the mfg in Italy and the quality if known for being the best available.

September and October are ideal months to plant; November is OK if soil is still workable.  Plant bulbs, roots down, 6-9 inches deep.  Add bulb food to the hole according to directions. Deer and rabbits, which love most bulbs, find daffodils distasteful and rarely eat them.  If you're plagued with these pests, plant as many daffodils as you like - and sleep soundly.
Wait until daffodil foliage begins to turn yellow and wither before cutting it off.  This will help the plant bloom more vigorously next year.
Designing with Daffs

The classic yellow daffodil is always a pleaser, but the many other colors and forms add more pizzazz to gardens.

1.  Mix & Match
2.  Look Natural (don't just do rows)
3.  Make a splash (group them)
4.  Use simple clay & colorful ceramic


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:51:51 PM 
 
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Garden of Reading

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21
9/21/2010 5:23:11 PM
Toad Cottages & Shooting Stars:  Grandma's Bag of Tricks
by Sharon Lovejoy;  Workman; 2010 $14.95

This fun filled book includes 130 grandchild friendly activities.  Recipes for mud pies and soap bubbles included.  Yeah!
Growing Vegetable Soup by Lois Ehlert

This book takes kids on a vegetable's journey from plot to pan.  They will learn about watering, weeding, digging, washing and finally cooking.  It's a great book to get kids excited about gardening.
Grandpa's Garden Lunch
by Judith Caseley

Sarah loves to help her grandfather tend his veggie garden and enjoy the fruits of their labors.  This book is all about sharing the joy of gardening with children.
The Tale of Peter Rabbit
by Beatrix Pottery

More than 100 years old, this hare-raising childrens book is one of the all time best sellers of its genre.  A timeless collectible!
Stone Soup
by Jon Muth

A great adaptation of a tale that has been retold in different languages for centuries.
June 29, 1999
by David Wiesner

Strange things happen after Holly Evans launches veggie seedlings from weather balloons. 

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:51:15 PM 
 
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Gardeners Book Shelf

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21
9/21/2010 4:55:21 PM
Lives of the Trees: An uncommon History
by Diana Wells; Algonquin books of Chapel Hill;
2010 $19.95

Highlights the history of relationships between
human beings and these largest members ofthe plant kingdom.  Each essay is only a fewpages long and ends with wry comments.
Eat your yard!  Edible Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Herbs, and
Flowers for Your Landscape.
by Nan K. Chase; Gibbs Smith;
2010; $19.99

Nan asserts that you can have a beautiful garden that will also feed you.  She profiles more than 30 plants.
The Joy of Gardening:  An inspirational Anthology
by Eileen Campbell, editor; Hodder & Stoughton; 2010 $11.95

This compact volume includes hundereds of quotations & poems from writers both famous & obscure.    Pocket size but Fun!
One Magic Square:  The Easy, Organic Way to Grow Your Own Food on a 3 Foot Square
by Lolo Houbein; The Experiment, LLC; 2010 $18.95

Lolo simple belief is "Shortening as much as possible the distance between our fork and the farm."
Big Gardens in Small Spaces; Out-of-the-Box-Advice for Boxed-In Gardeners
by Martyn Cox; Timber Press; 2010 $27.95

Martyn Cox proves it's not he size of the garden that counts, but the creativity of the gardener!
Right Rose, Right Place
by Peter Schneider Storey Publishing; 2009 $29.95
Beautifully illustrated and oversized this volume untangles many of the thornier questions confronting interested in growing roses. 

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:50:33 PM 
 
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Grow your own backyard drugstore!

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7
9/7/2010 5:04:29 PM
Feel happier with geraniums!

The mere scent and sight of these colorful blooms is a proven mood booster - they activate the brain region that regulates hormones reducing anxiety and irritability.  Bonus:  Mosquitoes hate the fragrance, so a few geraniums will keep the pests away!  Plant a few simple clay pots or fill a garden bed with them.  They will never disappoint.

How to grow:  Since geraniums are low-maintenance plants that will thrive in nearly any soil, you can place them anywhere - they also need little water to survive.

Smooth wrinkles with chamomile!

This member of the daisy family may be best known as a relaxing tea, but it also has a compound proven to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles!  Steep 1 tsp of fresh blossoms in 1 C of hot water for 15 -20 minutes, strain and pat on as a facial wash.  It also reduces redness and irritation.
How to grow:  Chamomile is a great ground cover and also does well in garden pots.  By placing it in a pot you can control the spreading of roots and keep the plant contained.  Just put in sunlight and watch it grow.
Soothe sun damage with aloe!

You know aloe is great for soothing sunburns - and there's good reason why:  The gel inside the leaves has anti-inflammatory compounds that have been found to penetrate skin cells 500% better than water - the reason it cools on contact.  The most effective way to benefit:  break off a stalk (it'll grow back) and squeeze the gel right onto the burn.
How to grow:  Aloe needs watering and warmth, so keep it in a beautiful containerand bring it indoors during the winter months.
Ease back pain with ground ivy!

This vine's potent anti-inflammatory compunds have made it a time-honored remedy for sciatica, lower back pain.  To use it fill an old sock with ground ivy, leaves, flowers & roots, hang it on the tub faucet as it fills and soak for 20 minutes.

How to grow:  It can thrive in any kind of soil or light and needs harly any effort to survive.  However, we recommend you contain it from taking over your yard by placing it in a large decorative container
Relieve poison ivy with impatiens!

This colorful annual has an inti-inflammatory agent that counteracts the irritants in poison ivy and poison oak; in fact, its extract can provide ich relief in minutes and overnight rash reduction for 95% of people.  Slice the stem and rub the inside on the exposed area, or boil it into a tea and freeze in ice cube trays - whenever you get a rash, rub the ice cube over it.

How to grow:  Impatiens provide brilliant color in light or even full shade where few flowers can survive.  Just make sure you water thoroughly.  We love them placed in a simple clay container in your garden area or patio.
Zap a rash with chickweed!

If it seems like this feathery little plant with tiny white star like flowers is taking over parts of your yard, don't fret.  Chickweed has a long history of topical use by the Amish and others to relieve itches, bee stings and bug bites.  An now research reveals the reason:  It's an effective antihistamine!  Slice open the stem and apply directly.

How to grow:  Chick weed works as excellent ground dover, just place in moist soil in a shady spot and it propagates fast.  If you want to hold it back so it won't encroach on other plants, place it in a large decorative container.
Energize with basil!

Basil leaves are a natural stimulant, giving you an energy boost whenever you're around them.  Sniffing them can even reduce migraines and ease depression, according to scent studies!

How to grow: Basil prefers full sun, so keep plants in an area where they'll get eight hours a day.  Put them in a kitchen window, in a sweet planterand have them handy year round.
Playing with plants, pottery and different combinations of the two can be fun & very rewarding.  You can plant different kinds of plants for fragrance & color but don't forget the health and medical purposes they can be used for. 

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:49:59 PM 
 
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Nasa & Houseplants - Who knew?

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30
8/30/2010 11:25:36 AM
     In the early 1980's, when NASA researchers were looking for ways to purify the air inside the space pods of the future, they didn't just look to engineer a pricey, high-tech filtering system.  They also turned to the humble houseplant.  As the months grow colder and darker, driving you indoors, take a cue from NASA and put your plants to work absorbing the air pollutants lurking in your home or office.

     Bill Wolverton, PHD, who helped pioneer the NASA studies, selected a trio of potted powerhouses.  (For freshest results, Wolverton recommends covering soil with a one-inch layer of pebbles or decorative gravel, which cuts the risk of mold and bacteria and keeps kids and pets from playing where they shouldn't.    Arizona Pottery  sells a colorful and stunning polished glass that not only looks elegant but is very functional for this purpose.  click here to see.

Palms not only are top performers in removing airborne toxins but can add up to a liter of moisture to the air per day - perfect for counteracting the desert-dry effects of indoor heating systems.
This thirsty, shiny mainstay is ideal for rooms that don't receive much sunlight (and aren't most rooms like that in November?)  It's particularly adept at filtering formaldehyde, which is found in many adhesives and floor coverings.
In cheeerful reds, pinks, and yellows, this flowering fall plant is an excellent filter of airborne chemicals such as benzene (emitted by gasoline, ink, paint, and pesticides) and ammonia (common in cleaning supplies).


"Just because you've only got houseplants doesn't mean you don't have the gardening spirit - I look upon myself as an indoor gardener". - Sara Moss-Wolfe

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:49:26 PM 
 
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Top 10 remedies for the container blues

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26
8/26/2010 4:46:04 PM

If you've killed enough outdoor container plants to fill a small forest, you're not alone.  To figure out what went wrong and avoid making the same mistakes next time, take a look at the top 10 most common remedies for container plants in decline:
More plants die from too much water than any other cause.  While it may seem counterintuitive to let plants dry out, it actually benefits plants by allowing oxygen to pass into the soil.  So let your plants take in a breath of fresh air once in a while.  Use your finger to test whether the soil is dry 2 to 3 inches below the surface-that's when you should water.  Also, when in doubt, check your plant's roots by gently lifting it out with the tip of a spade.  Look for black or mushy tips, which indicate rot.
Try to avoid going to the opposite extreme and letting your plants dry out.  Unless you're growing a cactus or succulent, it's not going to appreciate being thrown into the desert.  To help find the right balance between too wet and bone-dry, consider buying a moisture meter.  These inexpensive little gadgets take the guesswork out of watering by telling you when the soil is nearly dry, which is the right time to water.
All plants need light to survive.  You probably knew that already but did you know that the most commmon cause of lack of blooms is insufficient light?  In general, low-light plants such as impatients don't need direct sun.  Part-sun or medium-light plants such as violas do best with three to four hours of direct morning sun and some dappled afternoon sun - light that's filtered through a nearby tree, for example.  Zinnias, petunias, and other full-sun plants generally need size hours or more of direct mid-day or afternoon sun per day to do their best.
Believe it or not, plants can get sunburned, too.  And until someone invents a sunscreen lotion for plants, it's important to avoid putting medium-or-low-light plants in too much scalding afternoon sun.  Different seasons can also mean fluctuations in light intensity, so while a plant might have been happy with a few hours of direct sun in early spring, it may be getting too much sun once the dog days of summer roll around.  One advantage container plants have over garden plants is that you can move them around as the seasons change.  A good rule of thumb for low-light plants is to put them in dappled shade or a place where they will get early morning or late afternoon sun.
Plants in containers need to be fed more often than  plants in the garden.  Frequent watering causes nutrients to leach out of the soil over time, leaving impoverished soil.  The solution is to feed all of your foliage plants about once a month during periods of growth.  Feed blooming plants more often, since they require more energy for flower production-about once every two weeks while in flower.  The rest of the time, you can treat them like foliage plants.  If you're planning to overwinter your container plants, stop fertilizing completely by September so plants go dormant in time for winter.
Prevent pest and disease problems from rearing their ugly little heads by practicing good hygiene.  This means disinfecting your tools with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution after each use, rinising out old containters with soap and water, and throwing out potting soil if it was previously home to diseased plants.  You can nip most insect problems in the bud if you catch them early enough.  Start by spraying plants with a strong stream of water and wiping the insects off with a damp paper towel.  Disease pathogens thrive in wet conditions, so keep leaves dry and soil slightly dry.
Choosing the right container for your plant is almost as important as putting it in good soil.  Since most flowering annuals don't have very deep root systems, they'll do well in containers that are wider than they are deep.  If, however, you fall in love with a tall container and want to use it, fill the bottom half with a filler material such as packing peanuts or broken up shards of pottery, then add potting mix on top.  This helps provide better drainage and prevent root rot.  Use a container that is no more than 2 to 3 inches larger than the roots of the plant, so the plant doesn't drown in excess soil & water.
The soil around a plant's roots is its house, and just like the houses we live in, the soil in containers could use a little spring-cleaning every year.  A potted perennial may live several years in the same potting soil.  To keep that soil healthy,it's important to revitalize it every year.  Take the rootball out of the pot and carefully remove some of the old potting mix from the sides and bottom of the rootball, then add new potting mix to the container and replant.
Look at a plant's place of origin to see if your conditions will be a good match for it.  For example, violas and other woodland plants love shady, moist, humus-rich conditions resembling those found in their native environments.  Plants from arid regions, such as many ornamental grasses and bulbs, prefer dry conditions and well-drained soils.  Choose the right plant for the right place and you can avoid many ailments.
Annuals will die when freezing weather comes, and you can choose new ones next spring.  But if you plant perennials in containers and want them to last through winter, check each plant's hardiness zone to make sure it will survive in your region.  Plants in containers tend to be more vulnerable to extreme temperatures, so it's wise to buy plants that are hardy to at least one hardiness zone colder than the one you're in.  For borderline plants, provide extra mulch or move them into an unheated garage in winter to keep them safe.

By Amber Freda
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:48:50 PM 
 
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Who is the Greenman?

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16
8/16/2010 3:26:01 PM

A Greenman is a sculpture of a mans face surrounded by or made  from leaves.  Branches or vines may sprout from the nose, mouth, nostrils or other parts of the face and these shoots may bear flowers or fruit.  Commonly used as a decorative architectural ornament, they are being adapted to many garden and landscape uses. 

Found in many cultures around the world, the Green Man is often related to natural vegetative deities.  Primarily it is interrpreted as as symbol of rebirth, or "renaissance," representing the cycle of growth each spring.

The simpliest form depict a man's face peering out of dense foliage.  Some may have leaves for hair, perhaps with a leafy beard.  Often leaves or leafy shoots are shown growing from his open mouth and sometimes even from the nose and eyes as well.  Usually the face is happy and whimisical but occasionally it can appear strange and scary. 

A
Greenman has been used in many different rites or pageants but we like them used as a embellishment for your home or garden area where it blends in nicely with the garden foliage.  The symbol of regeration as part of the life-cycle or the traditional rebirth of every year at the beginning of Spring are all tied into their history.

Take architecture, anthropology, mythology and folklore and mix them all together.  They spin a century old tale of history and mystery that every seductive garden should possess.

We sell these beautiful and detailed
wall plaques as triangles, rectangles and other unusual shapes.  Each is cast in plaster and hand stained to give is an aged "terracotta' colored finish that is both durable and elegant.
Place on on a garden fence post, ivy covered garden wall or a garden tree that needs a bit of whimsy.  You can find them on our website under "Garden Items" "Wall Items" or you can click on any of the photos in this blog.

Add charm, character or mystery to any garden area.  Invest in your Green Man Today!


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:48:12 PM 
 
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Clay Pot Irrigation

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11
8/11/2010 10:23:03 AM

     Many years ago Spanish settlers brought to the American Southwest the fruits of their homeland, and with them, the ancient practice of clay pot irrigation.  These pots, called "ollas" were soon recongnized by the indigenous people of the Southwest for their water conserving qualities and adopted into native gardens.  By combining the design of native produce and traditional styles with the age old practice of clay pot irrigation,   Agua de Vida is preserving our rich heritage.

     Over time, modern systems were adopted, but these modern systems are not as efficient as irrigation by seepage by buried ollas.  Modern systems, even surface drip irrigation systems loose more water to evaporation and are more likely to clog than this olla system.  When they are used properly, plant roots will proliferate around the moist clay jar, intercepting water before it can move through the soil by capillary action.  This water intercepted by roots will then be used in the plant transpiration stream.  The results are 100% of applied irrigation water being absorbed by the plants.

     Our future is tied to the availability of water.  Recognizing this fact, many cities within the United States have recently placed strict regulations on private and commercial water usage in attempts to slow the depletion of our limited water sources.  Ollas put water where the plants need ti most-at the roots, virtually eliminating evaporation, ollas are one of the most efficient ways of irrigation.  Discovering new ways of saving out water has never been more critcal.

Conserving our water means conserving our future.

 

Applications:

Containers application:
  Bury Olla halfway in center of pot.  Place plants requiring the most water against the olla, low water plants towards the edges of the container.  Additional surface water may be needed to establish new plants.  Once plants are established, the olla should be refilled regularly based on the moisture content of the soil, NOT on the amount of water in the olla.  To minimize evaporation, cap the olla with a stopper or saucer.  Watering times will vary based on olla size, soil type, & application.

Ground application:  Although ollas can be used in flat ground, it is not recommened.  If you choose to do so, follow the same directions for containers.

Mound application:  One of the most efficient means is within a mound or raised bed.  Because the olla irrigates from the inside out, a mound maximizes the planting area and assures that the maximum amount of applied water goes directly to the plant roots.  Mounds can be shaped to accomodate multiple ollas.

We sell these Ollas, click here to see more.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:47:33 PM 
 
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 Comments (6) Last comment made 
25
7/24/2012 4:17:03 PM 
pam 7/24/2012 4:17:03 PM 
mercedes - i am sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. i wasn't notified that your comment was made. anyway, unfortunately we only carry the two styles even thought they come in different types. the bottle and the pumpkin are all that we carry in the different sizes.

Click to see map of UNITEDSTATES
mercedes 7/9/2012 2:18:49 AM 
can you please post pictures of each "olla" type/model/size, as well as their approximate dimensions? this information is not displayed on the purchasing page, and the unlabelled pictures posted there show these pieces as having quite a number of shapes and sizes. some of them, for example, have longer and wider necks, others shorter and narrower. another piece looks like an elongated squash, not like a bottle or pumpkin. it would be nice to know what each type/model/size looks like and its dimensions before ordering.

Click to see map of UNITEDSTATES
mori kimmel 5/16/2012 9:02:41 AM 
hello, i am interested in purchasing some ollas to use in wine crates that have herbs in them. how many ollas would you recommend in a crate - and which size? thank you! mori

Click to see map of UnitedStates
pam 5/4/2012 2:26:24 PM 
darlene, these don't have a drain hole. the water does seep through the clay. we sell alot of them and people really like them so if you try one - please let us know what you think. thanks

Click to see map of UnitedStates
darlene 4/29/2012 3:22:16 PM 
pictures will not enlarge. how many holes are in the ollas for the water to get out or does the water just seep out through the clay?

Click to see map of UNITEDSTATES
tayten 1/7/2012 12:55:57 PM 
i actually found this more entertaining.

Click to see map of ITALY

Take it Outside.

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9
8/9/2010 11:12:21 AM



The latest trend if you haven't noticed is to take your indoor living areas and duplicate them outdoors.  That way you expand your living areas, continue with the things you like only outside instead of inside and stretch your creative juices when it comes to designing a second living area.  When you "think outside the box" you can create a space that is stunning and will not break your bank account in the process.

In todays decorating climate, manufacturers are competing with each other to see who can provide products that lend detail and function - all at a reasonable price.  From lighting, furniture, kitchens, fire pits and decorative items like pottery & statuary, the idea of taking your entertaining outdoors is fun & exciting.   People are cooking in outdoor kitchens, conducting business in outdoor office space, grooming in outdoor showers & entertaining in outdoor living rooms.
Homeowners are pushing their exterior spaces to levels unimaginable just a few years ago. 

Remember when you just placed a couple of lawn chairs on a wood deck or concrete patio and were perfectly content?  Well - those days are long gone!  People desire space that is focused on living, literally in the great outdoors.  Will you be cooking? do you need a shower? are chairs enough or do you need lounges to sun bathe? will you need lighting for reading or nighttime entertaining? tables for craft or painting projects?  All these questions point to the one main considerdation......"What will you be doing in this outdoor space?"

When looking at your options don't just stand at the door from the house to the backyard.  Go out and look back at the home, take into consideration the side yards, look at the slopes or sunken areas.  Plan functional spaces that make the most out of what you have to work with.

Then proceed to the fun stuff:  Furnishings!  Think about size when selecting furniture.  Is a seating area more fitting then a lounging area?  Do you entertain large groups or will it mostly be just your immediate family?  Do you want a fire pit or would a built in fireplace be perfect?  Once you make these major decisions - move on to the accent items.  Outdoor rugs, artwork, lamps, cushions and luxurious fabrics are all now available.  Think color, size and function.  Add colorful umbrellas in fun colors.

Place large decorative pots around the border of the seating area to add character and function.  Fill them with sweet smelling annuals and lush green palms.  They help to compartmentalize the area and create a comfortable, cozy feeling.  Use plants that attract butterflies or birds and help create a wildlife area.

Get really exotic and add a flat-panel TV, lush drapes and a stereo sound system.  From James Bond-like gadgets to the comfiest sofa on which to catch a snooze, products to enhance outdoor lving continue to floor the market.

We all keep waiting to go on a great vacation so we can finally relax.  But if we can create that vacation getaway in our own backyards, then the place to recharge is only 5 minues away!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:46:49 PM 
 
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Growing "Chile Peppers" in Pots

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3
8/3/2010 2:48:21 PM
Never start peppers off in pots; instead start plants from seed, sown in the ground.  If you are unable to start seeds, then purchase transplants at your local garden center.  Either way peppers that spend their first growing season in the ground rather than in a garden pot increases there vigor.
At the end of the first growing season, water the ground thoroughly and dig up the healthy plants.  Remove excess soil and give the root system a light pruning before planting them in a terra-cotta or glazed clay garden pot.  Light colored pots help to reflect the sun and tend to keep the soil from drying out to quickly but any garden pot will work- so pick something you like.  Use a good potting soil with additional perlite, vermiculite, or sand and add a slow release fertilizer to the mix.  Water well and place in a shady spot to recover.
Once inside, potted peppers are treated to the same conditions they have in their native habitat.  Temps between 60 & 75 degrees, and generous light, which can come from grow lights if necessary.  Make sure you have good drainage, low humidity and adequate air circulation.
Sometimes in late winter they may drop their leaves and go into dormancy.  When the foliage falls, give plants a radical pruning which invorigates their growth. 
Refer to the photo.

In April or May - the plants will begin to produce foliage again and will often flower.  When the weather warms up - move them outside and wait for another crop of chiles in August or September.   EASY & FUN!


The best peppers for home & garden pots have a compact habit, attractive foliage, and an abundance of small, colorful fruits.  These ornamental types often lack the subtle flavors, but not the fire, of larger-podded types.

Compact ornamental pepper varieties, growing 6 to 20 inches high and 6 to 18 inches wide, are ideal for small garden, hanging baskets, or pottery containers.  Unlike, their kin, which hang beneath foliage, ornamental plants produce upright clusters of peppers that face the sky.
Sow seeds in fertile, well-draining soil anf full-sun location about 1/4" deep and 1" apart.  As they ripen, a single plant may sport three or four different peppers shading from yellow to orange, red, purple or brown.  Pick often; the more you harvest, the more peppers will grow!


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:46:14 PM 
 
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Art in the Garden

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28
7/28/2010 10:40:48 AM


How to choose and place ornamentation with a thoughtful eye
toward your garden's overall design
.
Why do artful objects - such as sculptures, architectural artifacts, and birdbaths - have such an impact in the landscape?  Like adding jewelry to a little black dress, or a few bright pillows to a tired sofa, art and ornamentation improve the garden's composition.

  Garden decor should provide delight, but it shouldn't compete with your plants.  A well-placed sculpture adds to, rather than detracts from, the border's appearance.  Precious objects displayed side by side with foliage and flowers or partially hidden amoung the stems and branches of a favorite plant  - give a garden its personality.  They also communicate volumes about the gardener's own tastes and style.
  While there is no right or wrong in something as subjective and personal as choosing artwork for your garden, the general rules of scale and proportion, placement and balance, and harmonious composition are useful guidelines.
   Think of scale as the "heft" of materials, shapes, and forms, especially as your garden relates to your home.  Evaluate your home's architecture and use it as a guide to selecting related artwork and ornaments.  For example, a Victorian-style home is often feminine in feeling, finished with delicate millwork and detailed trim.  A contemporary home may be more geometric and massive, with a presence tha overwhelms the landscape.
   Each of these styles requires compatible ornamentation in the garden.  A trellis with latticework for the Victorian garden, while a beefy arbor makes sense for a contemporary home.
   Don't choose garden art that gets dwarfed by the scale of your home.Proportion is a close relative to scale.  A single cherub appears lonely and out of proportion in a woodland garden, but a pair of cherubs, perched on twin rocks at different levels, conveys a definite sense of presence.  If you love antique birdcages, but its to small for your perennial border, place it on a 2 foot pedestal.  Or use a favorite technique of interior designers:  Group like-minded smaller objects together to fill a larger space.  This works well with garden pots, animal statues, or ornamental garden spheres.
   Where you place artowrk says volumes about its role in the landscape.  A blue glazed, ceramic garden pot, like the one show above, might be fine at the bottom of your porch steps, but looks fantastic when placed in a border at the perimeter of your garden, posed against dark green shrubs.
   As you stand in the garden, use your eye as a guide.  What earns your notice?  Is it a bare spot underneath a 15 foot Japanese maple?  Why not place an Asian-inspired lantern at its base?
   As in fashion and fine art, balance can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, depending upon the mood and style of your garden.  Formal gardens usually call for symmetrical touches.  Flank the beginning of a pathway with two colums, inviting visitors to further explore the garden's delight.   As with anything creative, this approach is subjective.  It's what your eye sees and what pleases you that matters.

   This section could also be titled "It's my style and I'm sticking to it."  As you adorn the garden with nonplant objects, unify your selections.  Choose materials, finishes, and objects that relate to your home's style and to each other.  This approach takes discipline, because we gardeners are easily wooed by beautiful objects.   Some gardeners only buy pots colored turquoise.  Many like rusted iron or natural, moss covered terra-cotta.  From finial topped trellises in rusted iron to a birdbath and paving stone in tera cotta, the garden accessories work well together - and with her garden's style.
   Extend this harmony to plant choices, making sure the artwork you select looks compatible with nearby plants. Plant-artwork pairings can be unforgettable.
   Returning to the idea of accessorizing that little black dress, remember: Once you think you've designed the perfect outfit, take one thing away.
   Smart design calls for a dose of restraint. Take a walk through your garden and look for clutter you can eliminate.  Where can you take away a distracting piece of art and instead let the surrounding plantings sing their song.  Strive to add extraordinary pieces to your garden and take away objects that don't distinquish themselves.  There is certainly room for kitsch, but it's placed in a special place where it fits.  Give your garden an air of sophistication, a sense of harmony, and a touch of restraint.  Allow some objects to take center stage, with others in a supporting role.

Well-placed objects will enhance your garden's beauty and reflect your personal style.

By Debra Prinzing author of "The Abundant Garden"
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:45:40 PM 
 
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Pool-scaping

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13
7/13/2010 3:21:36 PM


Many pool area's are lacking when it comes to landscaping and potted plants surrounding them.  Most have a medium deck space, patio table with chairs and a lounge chair or two.  Quite often the plant materials are sparse and many times non-existent.

In many cases, what is lacking are colorful flowers, fragrance from fruit trees or bushes, warmth from grass or ground cover and/or privacy from trees and tall shrubs.  Put it all together, in a nice well planned design and it frames the pool view and softens the deck surrounding it.
           
 Use tall plants to create a sense of volume and privacy. By equally spacing 3 or 4 patio trees in the center of a narrow garden bed behind the pool, you can create privacy.  When they mature, the foliage will create a canopy that will fill in for a privacy screen.  Use them to block a neighbors home or other tall structure.  Choose trees with a small trunk girth and a max height of 15 to 20 feet at maturity.  You don't want to have to transplant these if they get to large.

Mix in medium shrubs to create a completed look.  Intersperse a few of the same plants and shrubs on each side of the trees to create a united look.  Choose evergreens with unique foliage for appeal all year long.  Keep pruning to a minimum by selecting shrubs with nice form and a managable size.  Add scents schrubs for added pizazz.
Frame the bed with color.  With all the trees and shrubs you can add a lower layer of color and scent with annuals or perennials.  Fill in bare areas with ground cover to keep exposed soil from blowing into the water.

Dress up the deck area with pots.  Planting and placing decorative pottery around the pool area adds character, color and a structural element.  Use large pots surrounded by smaller accent pots.  Make the pots colorful and durable.  Use pots made of Poly Resin, Concrete or a high fired ceramic.  All will last longer than a clay or terracotta pot.  Arrange them in groups or use identical containers in a row for a striking focal point.  Have fun and color here.

When selecting a plant palette, it is important to choose those that keep the pool and deck clean and safe.  So stay away from potential problem plants that:
* Drop messy debris that can clog a filter or make the deck slick.
* Have berries or fruit that could stain the patio.
* Have invasive roots that could compromise the structure.
* Attract bees - this seems obvious.
* Have throns that romping kids could fall into.
* Are susceptible to disease.
* Can't tolerate exposure to pool chemicals.

We hope we were able to suggest some creative and flexible solutions to satisfy your pool needs.


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:45:01 PM 
 
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25 Secrets every gardener should know - Part 2

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23
6/23/2010 11:17:13 AM











Part 2 continues where Part 1 left off.  We start here with Tip 14

14.  Spur strawberries by rooting plant runners.  All types of produce more fruit if runners are clipped allowing them to produce no more than three daughter plants each summer.  When runners produce dauther plants, place them - still attached to the mother plant - into a small pot filled with soil  When the daughters grow enough roots, simply clip them off the runner.  Give the new plant away or start a new strawberry bed.

15. 
Safeguard compost from contamination.  Avoid adding feces from dogs, cats, or pigs to your compost pile because it can carry harmful patogens that can transfer to vegetables grown from that compost.  But it is OK to use horse or cow manure that has been aged at least on year.

16.  Eat your flowers!  Learn which ones are safe to eat and only choose organically grown petals.  Nasturtium blooms add a peppery flaor to salads, minced snapdragon petals lend a confetti color to butter, and pea flavor tulips make a beautiful edible cup for tuna or chicken salad.  Remember to remove the pollen-laden bitter pistils and stamens inside.

17.  Help birds build nests by providing narrow grasses, fine strips of bark, thistle, burlap, or milkweed.  Stuff a mesh onion bag with pieces of yarn 8" long or shorter, hair, feathers, or small twigs and hang it in a spot protected from rain and cats.

18.  Make your own fertilizer.  Collect leaves of comfrey and stuff them into a bucket.  Compress the leaves with a brick or rock, cover the bucket and let the leaves decompose for 6 weeks.  The result will be a black liquid that looks like motor oil butis a godsend for plants because it is high in potassium and nitrogen.  Dilute with water (one part of the liqid comfrey to 15 parts water) and use the mix when watering plants, or spray it directly on leaves.

19.  Plant annual geraniums in clay pots or planters, which tend to dry out faster than other types of plant containers.  This is a good thing because annual geraniums need to throughly dry out between watering periods.  For most other annuals, use ceramic, poly resin, concrete pots with saucers to retain moisture.

20.  Design high impact containers with monochromatic color schemes.  Stock with one color per pot, adding interest by filling companion pots with plants that have a related hue by different shape or texture.  If you are unsure, group plants together in your shopping cart before buying to see how they look together; cool and warm tones of the same color sometimes don't blend.

21.  Use your ingenuity wthen mixing up solutions to keep deer away.  Deer learn quickly, so switch products frequently to keep them guessing.  Try garlic spray, predator urine, and commercial deer repellents.  All will work - for a while.  Reapply often.  The best solution may be to place motion-activiated sprinklers in the garden.  Deer never get used to being hit with a sudden blast of water.

22.  Preserve fresh herbs for soups and stews.  Fill an ice cube tray with chopped herbs, top with water, and freeze.  When the cubes are solid, move them to a plastic freezer bag.  Use as needed.

23.  Till soil sparingly.  Mechanical tilling is fine for a new bed or one that is heavily compacted.  But continual grinding, year after year, will disrupt the soil structure, turining it into a powder that won't hold moisture.  Till sparingly and be sure to augment annually with leaves.

24.  Shake out the salt. Epsom salt can be an ally in the garden when scratched into the soil  The salt's magnesium and sulfer help germination and flowering while improving the uptake of phosphorus and nitrogen.

25.  Sharpen your edge by using the proper eding technique.  Make a vertical cut with a flat-edge spade along the outside line of your bed.  After making the vertical cut, move to the other side of the bed.  About 3" away from the outside edge, angle the spade to about 45 degrees and cut to the bottom of the vertical-edge side.  Shake off excess soil, then toss the remainder into a compost pile.  Mulch to the edge of the inside cut.  The edges keep the lawn at bay for about a year.

We hope you liked these tips.  If you would like to share any of the great tips we know you have then just email us and we will be happy to publish them.  email: info@arizonapottery.com


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:44:39 PM 
 
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25 Secrets every gardener should know - Part 1

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23
6/23/2010 10:23:55 AM




You can never have enough tips.  Here are 25 that are really good!
Starting here we have Tip 1 thru Tip 13

1.  Check for slugs at night.  Because slugs and snails need constant moisture, they avoid direct sunlight and beome more active at night, when they feed on hostas and other plants.  So scout in the dark and use a flashlight.  Collect the pests by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.

2.  Shop for bargains on bleeding hearts when they normally go dormant in early summer.  Garden centers may lower the price on a plant that apprears to be dying - although it isn't.  If you are bargain hunting for other perennials, slip the root ball out of the pot; healthy roots will be firm and colored white or tan.  If you see dark brown, rotted or withered roots, don't buy them.  Use your fingernail to lightly scratch the surface of a woodly plant, a light green color just under the bark means it's likely to be fine.

3.  Start the entertainment.  Butterflies are fascinating to watch - and so easy to lure into the garden.  Simply include plants that attract female butterflies to lay thier eggs where the larvae and caterpillars can feed.   Black swallowtails prefer dill, parsley, and carrots.  Monarchs like milkweed and butterfly weed.  Painted ladies lay eggs on daisies and hollyhocks.  All these plants grow in full sun, which butterflies also need to warm their cold bodies.  Also include a shallow saucer filled with a muddy puddle.

4.  Wipe your hands of it.  To distribute soil over seedbeds gently and evenly, rub your hands together to sift the soil.  Using your hands helps break up large clods of soil and tops the seeds with just enough soil tohelp them germinate.  The smaller and finer the seed, the finer the layer of soil needed.

5. 
Get new shrubs for free.  Take a 6" cutting from easy-to-root plants, such as willow, poplar, privet, rose, redtwig, dogwood, English ivy and creeping juniper.  Dip the cut end into a rooting hormome and push it into a pot of moist potting mix.  Cover with a plastic bag punched with holes that allow the plant to breathe.  Place the container in an area where it receives light but no direct sun.  Keep moist but not drenched.  Plants should root in about 6 weeks.

6.  Help plants cope in heat.  When the heat rises for extended periods of time, stop pruning and fertilizing everything but container plants.  Plats cope with the heat by going into a virtual state of dormancy.  Don't make it harder for them by fertilizing or pruning, both of which encourage fresh grown when plants can least afford to make the effort.

7.  Clean salt off clay pots.  Clay pots are notorious for ugly salt despoists and other debris that can harbor diseases or dehydrate stems resting on them.  To clean off the salt, mix a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water.  Let pots soak for 10 minutes, then place in a solution of dish detergent and water.  Scrub with a wire bristle brush to remove mineral deposits and other debris.  Rinse thoroughly and soak pots in a bucket of clean water till ready to use.

8. 
Recycle an old hose by making a soaker hose.  Simply drill tiny holes 1 to 2 inches apart on one side.  Attach one end to a water spigot and cap the other.  Turn the water to a low flow for a half hour one or twice a week.  Add a timer for auto watering.  Keep the hose out of sight by covering it with mulch.

9.  Wait before mulching.  Allow soil to warm up and dry out a bit before mulching in spring.  Fluff up existing mulch before adding more so it doesn't form a hard surface that deflects water.  Avoid creating a volcano of mulch around plants.  Strive instead for a donut effect, where the area closest to the trunk is free of mulch.  Trees benefit from mulch spread to the drip line.

10.  Ensure peony blooms.  Peonies are among the easiest plants to grow but many gardeners miss out on the flowering.  Plant peonies where they will receive at least 6 hrs of sunlight every day.  Wait to cut peony foliage until after the first frost so leaves have the opportunity to return food reserves to the roots for next year's blooms.

11.  Keep cucumbers sweet with regular watering.  Most vine crops, such as cukes, melons, squash, and gourds, need at least 1" fo water every week.  But stop watering cantaloupes 8 to 10 days before you expect to harvest them.  Dry soil causes the plant to develop the sugars that give melons their best flavor.

12.  Time your tomatoes so you can either harvest them all at once or in continuous smaller batches. 

13.  Add offseason plants.  When shoppping for plants in spring, add out-of-season stalwarts such as aster, chrysanthemum, and goldnrod.  They may look boring in your cart at the checkout, but in a few months you'll be glad you have them to beef up yoru autumn landscape.

For tips 14 thru 25 refer to the next blog entry.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:43:56 PM 
 
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Winning Window Boxes.

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21
6/21/2010 9:33:42 AM





It is so easy to take a simple looking home front and turn it into a stunning display of color and beauty.  Window box planters are the easiest way to add some pizzaz to your home area, where you may have large window areas.  Large windows both tall and wide offer the greatest possibilities for climbers scrambling all the way up the sides, tall bushy plants inside these, curbing down to ever smaller things, and possibly a few more medium height plants for added variety.

This shingled house featured a row of windows with only a narrow strip of planting area below.  Windowboxes of red petunias, and a group of pots surrounding a large dracaena, well-potted geraniums on the steps, and more on the porch add much needed life, soft lines, and color.

Trailing plants - Trailers are just as vital, spilling out of the box and cascading downward to add further depth to the display.  They add an exotic touch and help to balance the feature, offsetting the height of the taller plants and climbers above.

Speaking of climbers and trailers, it's interesting to experiment with mixed plantings for unusual effects.  For example, two different types of climbing plants may be placed close together to scramble up through one another.   Perhaps an ivy with handsome glossy foliage, an a sweet pea to twine up through this, the flowers peeping out from amongst the ivy leaves.  Or in a permanent planting of evergreens, you could use two different types of ivy, one with dark green leaves and the other a golden or silver variegated variety; or one large-leaved and the other with small leaves.  Remember that ivies can be used both as climbers and as trailers.

The snow is not the only reason this house looks gloomy.  A few months later burgundy shutters, and a window box brimming with variegated ivy, spiky dracaena, lpomoea 'Blackie' and Mexican hair grass warm up the scene for a look with a lot more curb appeal.

Think out side the "window" box when it comes to creating a lively display.  Ask yourself if you were walking by the house what do you think would look great?  Then ask yourself if you were sitting inside the house looking out what would you like to see?  Make sure that all your hard work and effort can be enjoyed from both views.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:43:23 PM 
 
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Steps to improve your indoor gardening skills.

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18
6/18/2010 2:15:08 PM





Purchase healthy, bug free plants: Be picky.  A houseplant at a garden center should look its very best, not like it's on its last leg.  If you gently squeeze the sides of a plastic pot and the soil appears wet like a sponge, look carefully because you will probably see fungus gnats.  Also, if you gently thump the side of a container, you might see a whitefly cloud rise out of the soil.  Avoid buying these plants and introducing their problems into your home.

Keep a holding room:  When you bring home a new plants, isolate it in a room away from other houseplants for up to a month to make sure it's bug and disease free.

Don't overuse fertilizer:  Provide plant food monthly only during spring and summer, and use a diluted 20-20-20 fertilizer.  Remember: Fertilizer makes plants bigger; to much of it can make plants quickly outgrow their pots.

Upgrade pots judiciously:  Only when a plant's roots have outgrown its pots does it need to be bumped up to a bigger container.  Change pots conservatively because many plants, like succulents and cacti, prefer to be a bit root bound.

Don't underwater, and don't overwater:  Plants only need water when they're dry - unless the plant tag specifies otherwise.  To water, fill the container from the top layer of soil to the brim until water comes out the drainage holes in the bottom.  Wait for about half an hour for the plant to drink what it needs.  Remove excess water from the saucer with a turkey baster.

Rejuvenate tropicals with spa days:  Most houseplants are tropicals and enjoy humidity.  Treat them to a spa day by relocating them - one or two at a time - to a steamy bathroom.

Use flags for plant sitters:  When you go away on vacation, place a flag in the pots of plants that need special attention, such as extra water.  This will let your guest waterer know which plants to keep a careful eye on.





By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:42:50 PM 
 
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A Childs Play.

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16
6/16/2010 10:03:17 AM





There are few things kids love more than digging their hands into the earth, watching flowers bloom and spending some up-close and personal time with nature's abundant creppy crawlers.

Take a look at your garden inventory:  Are all your garden tools adult size and to dangerous form small inexperienced hands?  Then create a "Kid Zone" of garden items that your little ones can play with.  Offer your children something different than the latest Barbie doll or video game.

Kid's tool sets, containing shovels, hoes, leaf rakes, aprons, tote bags, garden gloves and tool boxes are specially designed to fit and appeal to a small child and make great gifts.  They are safe and easy to use and will minimize any gardening "boo-boos."

Children with vivid imaginations and zest for life, will appreciate items such as paint a pot kits or bird houses to set up and watch from a safe kitchen window.

You parents and Grandparents love to pamper your kids and we know it.  That is why we make such a fun selection of childrens kits and garden toys available year round.  Holidays, Birthdays, Beginning of Summer, whatever the occasion to celebrate with fun child friendly items.
Remember - kids love to immitate their parents.  Do you garden?  Do you get out in your yard and enjoy it for all of it's wonderful opportunities?  If not then take this opportunity to start now!  It is worth your time and effort.  We promise!

If you are interested in purchasing any of the items show above - then go to our Gift Store.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:42:09 PM 
 
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Planting a container is easy!

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14
6/14/2010 2:58:19 PM











Gather all materials.  You will need a stunning terracotta clay container, a hand spade or transplanter, appropriate plant materials, a good commercial pottery soil mix, fertilizer and a watering can.  Make sure your debth on container choice matches the plant label.




Start with soil.  Fill the pot approx one-third to one-half deep with soil.








Plant Rootballs.  For each plant, put one hand over the soil base or rootball and turn the container over.  Gently pull off the container with your other hand.  Set the rootballs in place at the proper depth, fill spaces with potting soil and press down firmly.  The soil level should be about 1 to 2 inches below the rim.







Water thoroughly.  It is very important to give it a good first time soaking to collapse possible air pockets and also help the flowers through their "transplant shock".





Fertilize:  A week or so later, mix liquid or powdered fertilizer with water in a watering can according to the fertilizer manufacturer's instructions.








Display:  A stunning container can be displayed as is.  You can also place a pre-planted nursery container inside of your clay or terracotta one to add style and looks.  Just make sure that there is good draining available.  You never want plant roots sitting is water.

Follow these east and simple steps and you can have a fantastic potted arrangement in minutes!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:41:29 PM 
 
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Blog Series - Fruit Trees & Berries in Pots Part 1

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9
6/9/2010 3:06:39 PM




Growing your own fruit is really fun and rewarding.  Nothing tastes better than homegrown fruit picked at peak ripeness.  Imagine the pleasure of adding a handful of berries to your morning cereal or serving an apple pie made with home-grown fruit from the tree - potted on your deck.  Don't forget that the fruiting plants add color and fragrance that can't be obtained from any other means.  The fragrant flowers, attractive foliage, and beautiful fruit all add to the charm of growing your own plants in pots.

Many types of fruits and berries adapt nicely to growing in containers.  Plant breeders continue to develop compact varieties especially suited to planters, and they have many advantages as well.  Probably the most important point is the mobility that container planted trees provide.  If frost threatens, you can move your fruit trees under cover for some protection.  So, even though container fruit growing takes a little more effort that flowers or veggies, the payoffs are well worth it.

Before you get started on this fun adventure - you need to learn a few fruit-gardening terms and concepts that will keep coming up.  Most of the information contained in this entry and future entries in this series,  will be about deciduous fruit trees (apple, peach etc....)

The Bee's Knees

Remember how pollen moves from the male part of the flower to the female part, fertilizing it, and causing fruit to grow?  Well, some fruit trees, like peach, have compatible make & female flower parts on the same plant, which is called self-fruitful.
All this means is if you plant a peach tree by itself -it will produce fruit.

Other fruits, including apple & blueberries, produce more quantity and better quality if they are cross-pollinated.  This means they receive pollen from another variety.  You can still grow one blueberry or apple plant and maybe get some fruit, but you get a lot more if a different variety grows nearby.

Pollinators carry pollen from flower to flower, even from one part of a flower to another part.  They are usually bees, flies or other insects.  We are sure you have plenty in your garden area.  Even city dwellers have them flying around, especially if there are plants nearby.  Planting a combination of flowers, veggies, and fruits makes your container garden a one-shop stopping place for our pollinating friends.

Most fruit trees have 2 parts:  the rootstock and the scion.

The rootstock is the below grown portion of the plant.  The scion is above ground.  Why do you need to know this.  Well, when nurseries grow fruit trees, the bud the scion variety onto the rootstock to take advantage of the best attributes of each plant.  Obviously the scion produces great tasting fruit but a good rootstock can contribute qualities like adapting to specific soil types, hardiness, or size control.

If grown on their own roots, most fruit trees get huge.  Much to big for any container.  But, if grown on dwarfing rootstocks, the same trees become ideal for planters.  Apples are easy and a normal apple dwarf rootstock can be reduced in size by 75%, just reaching 10 feet tall.  We must say that not all fruits are available like this, so check with your local nursery for more information.

In our next entry on this series we will be discussing:

*  Dwarfing fruit trees for containers.
*  Selecting fruit plants that are container friendly.
*  Basic planting & maintenance needs.
and more.


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:40:47 PM 
 
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Planting a Cool Pot.

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7
6/7/2010 4:04:41 PM




Soaring summer temperatures can take a toll on many garden plants.  But you can freshen your landscape's look practically instantly:  Just combine crisp white blossoms with a shower of icy blue or silver foliage in a glazed container that is pale blue, celadon green or any other cooling shade.

Set the container in a high visibility area, such as on a patio or beside an entry.  Then notice how the soothing palette mimics the sparkle and cool, watery blue of a swimming pool or water feature.

To create the planting pictured above, first select a great looking piece of pottery.  Then choose four plants that combine well at your local nursery.  A tall blue oat grass as an accent in the center, lower gorwers- mealycup sage (Salvia Farinacea) and angelonia - to surround it, and a spiller (Dichondra argentea "silver falls") to soften the pot's edge.



1.  Place a small piece of fine wire screening in the bottom of the pot to cover the drain hole & keep soil from washing away. 

2.  Partially fill the container with loose, well draining potting soil so that the top of the 1 gallon plant sits below the rim of the pot.  Lightly firm the soil to minimize settling.

3.  Set the tallest plant, the blue oat grass, at the back of the container.

4.  Set the remaining plants into the container, adding soil beneath their rootballs as necessary to raise them to the same soil level as the large plant.  Add the salvia toward the back of the container beside the grass, the angelonia in front, and the dichondra near the edge so it trails over the pot's lip.

Simply stunning!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:40:04 PM 
 
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5 Tips for success with tabletop containers

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3
6/3/2010 5:28:53 PM







A simple planting can highlight and complement the beauty of a colorful or intricate container.  There is no need for flashy or complicated looking plant materials, which can make the overall design appear chaotic.  Sometimes simple is just plain better!

If the thought of seeing naked potting soil at the dining table doesn't sit well with you, consider topdressing your pot with inexpensive aquarium gravel, decorative river rocks, filbert nuts or glass beads.  They all come in decorative colors and they will give table top containers a polished, finished look.  These types of toppers wil all prevent soil from splashing onto the table when watering.

Don't be afraid to pack plants tightly to achieve a full or finished appearance in temporary centerpieces.  Many plants can withstand the removal of much of the medium from around their roots for several days before showing signs of stress.

Color doesn't need to come exlusively from flowers; plenty of plants derive most or all of their color impact from leaves.  Foliage plants provide a long lasting visual impact and are appreciated by guests sensitive to flower fragrances or pollen.

When it comes to adding pizzazz, think beyond potted plants.  Consider including cut or silk flowers, fruit, branches, food, ribbons, candles, decorative rocks, moss, or whatever you like.  All of these things can be easily removed as they fade or as your mood changes.  Go with seasonal or holiday looks also.  They are so easy to do!

All though you want your dining table centerpiece to draw attention, you do not want it to be an obstacle for your guests.  To determine the right size for your table, follow these guidelines to help you create a conversation piece rather than an annoyance.

Make sure you have enough elbow room.  To determine the maximum width and length of a dining table centerpiece, set the table fully, placing a dinner plate or large serving platter in the middle of the table.  Then see how much space can be left around the center plate without crowding any of the serving pieces, stemware, and any other items above the plates.  Mark the area with a string or something of a similar shape, and measure the area for the container's width & length.


Keep the height below eye level.
To determine the maximum height of a dining table piece, sit at the table with someone of average height sitting across from you.  Stack items in the middle of the table until they reach the level of the other person's chin, then measure and record the height.  Use the determined height as a guideline when composing your container.


Spruce up your outdoor dining and entertainment spaces with decorative planted centerpieces.  Keep in mind the table elements and surroundings - such as furniture, carpets, walls, and decorative objects - and choose compatible colors that suit the occassion.  Portable centerpieces are a great way to introduce color and style to any table.  Putting these pots together isn't hard but it does require some thoughtful planning.  Design is important but so is functionality.  The art of creating effective tabletop containers goes beyond providing potted plants with the right light, nutrients, and water.  Practical considerations, such as how long you plan to showcase the container and where you intend to display it, play a role in helping.

Lastly, remember the "design police" probably won't be invited to sit at your table, but if they do show up, tell them you have they enjoy your creation.




By Ray Rogers - Author of" Pots in the Garden"
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:39:18 PM 
 
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Got Nectar?

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28
5/28/2010 10:42:20 AM





Plant a colorful variety of nectar-rich perennials to attract butterflies and hummingbirds.  You can also use wildlife tempting trees, shrubs, vines, and groundcovers.  Use a diversity of uncommon plants that grow quickly and produce lots of pretty flowers without needing a lot of water or maintenance.



Shrubs will do the heavy lifting in a wildlife garden.  They provide a habitat for birds, and even the Monarch caterpillars hightail from the milkweed flowers to shrubs when they are ready to pupate.

These make great places to teach home gardeners to attract wildlife.  Time spent watching birds and butterflies can tell you a lot about what they like.

A matrix of sheltering branches can form the garden peimeter.  Similar to an English hedgerow, they woody thicket is home to birds large and small.  Tiny hummingbirds nest about 6 feet above ground in shrubs and vines, while resident hawks perch on top of towering eucalyptus.  Orioles attach their nests to the undersides of large fan palm leaves.  You can also attract families of Quails.  Even dead twigs adn braches provide safe perches for mating or nesting birds.





Hummingbirds & butterflies migrate to perennials & shrubs with long, tubular flowers.  Plants that bear small, flat clusters of flowers feed the Monarchs and Swallowtails.  Make sure there are birdbaths or object to provide several containers of water throughout the garden.  Go with double duty plants that feed both butterflies and hummingbirds - especially if your garden area is small.  Try butterfly bush, which bears showy clusters of white, pink, lavender, purple, or yellow blooms.








Remember that what is attractive to the human eye is equally appealing to winged creatures, so view your garden on different levels.  Below are some suggestions.....give this a try.  Young or old, these types of gardens are entertaining, easy and truly fun!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:38:49 PM 
 
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A few new tips for container gardening!

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25
5/25/2010 9:51:41 AM

We have tons of tips but here are just a few......

Give potted plants the conditions they need.  Assess the site for your contained garden as you would for an in-ground planting.  Does the area get full sun, filtered shade, or deep shade?  Choose plants accordingly.  Is the area sheltered or exposed to lots of wind?  If it's exposed, you will need to install a trellis, windbreak, or other protection before putting your pots there.



Use foliage plants lavishly.  They add structure and form to the area and are a good foil for flower displays.  They also create a point of interest in shade, especially when you use glossy leaves to catch the light, or ones with white and yellow markings.



Choose containers to match the style of your home.  These concrete bowls work really well in Arizona where you can plant with cactus that have short roots and don't need a deep pot.  On a Mediterranean terrace you can use terracotta tuscany style pots and use bright colors with glossy finishes in front of a Cape Cod that needs alittle boost of something.  Don't mix to many pots but stick to a theme.



Indoor pots can easily match your decorating style.  Shiny, matte, colorful or plain clay - there are so many options to choose from that will blend in and add character to your indoor needs.



Pay attention to watering.  Containers dry out fast - especially in hot, windy weather.  If you have many pots, make it easy by trying some of the following devices:

A.  A hose end nozzle with an off-on lever allows you to turn off the water between containers.
B.  Long handled watering wands attach to garden hoses to extend your reach.
C.  Garden coils - self retracting hoses also extend reach and take up little space.
D.  Drip irrigations delivers water to individual containers and is easy to install with timers.



Potted plants are magaicians: They can turn hardscape into landscape.  Pots filled with greenery and flowers soften the hard edges of a patio or deck.  They also create the feel of a garden where ther's no earth to plant one.  Plants in pots contribute gentle textures, graceful movement, delicious scents, and seasonal changes.  They lure butterflies, hummmingbirds, and other welcome visitors.  In short, they can add life to urban outdoor spaces.  Best of all, because container plantings are portable, you can make little changes at any time without disturbing the whole scene.

Don't these photo examples make you want to start a little garden?  It really is easy.  All you need are a few awesome containers, potting soil, and plants with a place to display them.

Get out and plant!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:38:14 PM 
 
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Starting Plants from seeds

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12
5/12/2010 3:32:48 PM



As the economy sputters, you may find the idea of starting plants from seeds taking root.  But then you might wonder if it's too complicated or difficult.  Not to fear - seed starting is amazingly easy; consumes little time, energy & money; and brings you a whole new level of gardening satisfaction.

Here is a primer to get you started from "Gardening Green for Less"



First, Make Wise choices:
As you page through a seed catalog, make a wish list.  Pay attention to 2 important dates.

A.  Your last Spring frost - this date often dictates how early you need to start your seeds indoors.

B.  Days to Maturity - this is how long it takes the plant to produce flowers or fruit after sowing.  This information helps you to decide if the plant is suited for your climate & if it must be started indoors.

Start seeds too early, and you will have unwieldy seedlings indoors too long.  Start to late, and your plants may produce flowers or fruit later than usual, making them more vulnerable to summer's heat - or an early frost.

Create a Spot for Seedlings: 
Seed companies get very busy in winter & early spring and fill orders on a first-come first-served basis, so order early for the best selection.  While you are waiting for your seeds to arrive:

A. Find room to grow - In mild climates, sow seeds in a greenhouse.  Otherwise, find an area indoors that is warm and free of drafts.  A basement, sun porch or spare room are good options. Even the top of the refigerator is a great place to sprout seedlings.

B.  Provide sufficient light - Seedlings require between 12 to 16 hrs of light per day.  Sunlight from a window is not ideal because it is limited in late winter and early spring.  Instead, use artificial light.  Grow lights are best and use a timer with them.  Suspend them about 4" above the tops of the plants.

Time to Plant:
After your seeds arrive, here is what to do:

A. Begin with a damp, sterile seed starting mix.  Fill containers 2/3 full.  Tamp the surface to level.  Label to identify seedlings.

B.  Read the seed packet instructions to determine proper depth and light needs.

C. Don't over-sow.  Too many seeds produce a forest that is too thick for easy thinning.

D. Cover with plastic.  This holds in the warmth, which helps seeds to sprout when soil temperatures are between 65 & 70 degrees.  It also retains humidity, which allows seeds to absorb moisture and get going.

E. Check seeds daily.  The planting mix must remain moist.  Bottom watering is the best way to keep seedlings evenly, consistently moist.  Just set the container into a few inches of water and let it wick up what it needs.

Seedling TLC:
It usually takes a week or two for the first little leaves to emerge.
Once they begin to sprout:

A. Snip away extras.  Use scissors to snip weaker seedling right at soil level.  This provides the other plants with better air circulation and more nutrients.

B.  Water from above.  Use a fine spray mister.

C.  Fertilize seedlings.  After they germinate with a diluted houseplant ferlizier.  Do every 2 weeks.

D.  Get the acclimated,  When they are well rooted and nearing time to plant outdoors, move them outside in late Spring to a sheltered shady spot. Bring them indoors if frost threatens.  Gradually introduce them to the sun for a week or so - this makes them better prepared for your garden.

The skinny on thinning:
When seedlings sport two sets of true leaves as shown on left - it is time to provide more space.  To do so, allow only one seedling per container.  Cut the seedling off at grown level.  Don't pull them.
Seedlings that are randomly planted in larger containers also need to be thinned.  Use a spoon to gently lift seedlings out.  Carefully pull them apart, and place on seedling in a smaller container filled with sterile planting mix.  Cover the roots with soil and water to ensure good contact.  Move newly transplanted seedlings back under the grow lights.


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:37:35 PM 
 
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Pottery Collector

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10
5/10/2010 5:08:10 PM


Many people find that for one reason (poor clay soil) or another (no space) that they have to become creative when it comes to planting a garden.  So many people tend to take for granted the space and conditions they have when deciding what to plant and where.

Fleda Mackie, of El Cerrito, California started about 7 years ago by scooping up whatever she liked at her local garden center.  Now, her small yard has become an eclectic paradise of flowering plants.  Her roses, clematis, hostas & hydrangeas sit side by side with an array of succulents, orchids, calla lilies and cosmos.  “If I like the color, she says. “I bring it home”.  As her yard filled up, she turned her deck into a stage for potted plants.  “I’m afraid I’ve run out of room, she said “so now I have to be more selective”.
However, she will always find room for one more in her yard.

As you can see in the photo, her fence holds a collection of birdhouses, angels and potted succulents that thrive in full sun.  She often places potted plants among those growing in the ground to fill up the spaces and accent the garden.  Fleda has a nice area to entertain and the potted plants are accessories to her outdoor decorating scheme.

When it comes to collections - try grouping them for maximum impact instead of scattering them all around, where they may get lost in among the leaves.  Guests can view the entire garden from her deck which makes it easy and fun when showing off something new.    Use bare walls on the outside of your home to showcase collections of unusual containers filled with sun loving plant materials.  Place potted trees where the soil is poor and you need a large screen to block the view.  Place roses in pots along side perennials where each year they can be replaced with a different choice.

When it comes to containers, use terracotta with ceramic, bowls with rectangles – just mix it up.  The more the merrier! 
Just be sure to keep your eye on the amount of water each container will need to keep the soil moist and the plant roots healthy.

All of these ideas are easy, fun and beautiful.  Copy Fleda and find the look that best describes who you are!


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:36:58 PM 
 
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How thirsty are your potted plants?

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5
5/5/2010 11:31:59 AM

Plants growing in containers are at your mercy when it comes to getting the right amount of water.  Unlike plants growing in the ground that can rely on deep roots to get them through dry spells, container grown plants have limited soil from which to drink.  On the other hand, if container-grown plants are left to sit too long in saucers full of water, the roots can die from lack of oxygen.

It comes down to this:  If you want to be successful growing plants in containers, that is, if you want flowers to bloom well and your fruits, herbs & veggies to produce a bountiful harvest, you have to be an attentive & efficient waterer. 

When asked “How often should I water my plants” there is no easy answer.  It always involves several factors. 

1.  Consider location:  Planted pots under eaves or a dense tree may be deprived of rain.  Stand next to your containers and look up, can you see the sky?  Obviously pots on a covered porch must receive all their water from you because they are out of the rain.  All containers placed in full sun need frequent watering plus consider if the surface they are on is concrete where they will dry out faster than a wood deck which tends to stay cooler.  Pots near a light colored, south facing wall, which reflects light & heat will dry out faster than those farther away.

2.  Climate & Weather:   Climate is determined by where you live.  Obviously if you live in Seattle where it is humid and has a lot of rain, watering isn’t a constant chore.  In drier, hotter areas like Phoenix, watering would be a daily or even twice daily chore.  Weather is what is happening RIGHT NOW!  Pay attention.  Hot winds on cloudless days can dry out a hanging pot in a matter of minutes.

3.  Pot type & color:  The porosity of containers influence how much water evaporates through its sides.  Terracotta is meant to breathe and is more porous than a poly resin or concrete planter.  Lighter colored containers reflect sunlight and dry out more slowly than darker-colored ones, which absorb heat.

4.  Soil variations:  Potting soils used in containers are formulated for good drainage, which means they dry out quickly.  So read the bags when visiting your nursery or check back on this blog for recommendations in future posts.

5.  Root-boundedness:  Plants grown in containers have roots that become more crowded as it grows.  This requires more water.  At this stage it is easy to overwater plants.  As plant roots continue to grow and the organic matter in the pot mix breaks down, the pot containers more roots than soil.  The plant is root bound and the root ball can be difficult to keep moist.  This is the time to transfer it into a larger pot. 

Whether you have experienced any of the conditions listed above or something we may have missed, don’t hesitate to comment here.  We love you hear what’s happening in your yard or garden.

In a future post I will talk about the different methods for watering container plants so keep checking back. 


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:36:23 PM 
 
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Tips for fantastic containers!

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3
5/3/2010 3:53:50 PM


These tips are simple and easy to implement.  Just be creative and go with the flow.....



Design creatively in advance.

Once you hit the nursery to select your plant materials, try to create the look you hope to achieve BEFORE you purchase the plants.  Group the plants together on the pavement or get a cart.  Combine colors, styles and sizes to create a beautiful & conducive.  Make the arrangements in small groups and then set them aside and move on to the next pots arrangements.  Don't get overwhelmed or try to do the whole yard or patio in one trip.  You can always go back for more plant materials.

More is better.

Don't just put one plant in your patio pots.  A single plant looks sparse & lonely.  You have a choice of planting several different types of flowers or even multiple quantities of one type but a single plant is not very attractive.  We personally like the look of multiple types, heights, colors etc.  It just gives the yard & garden pot more character!

Group your containers.

Try placing multiple containers together in groups or even at different heights. Elevating the heights of the pots really changes up the look.  Use plant stands, pot racks or hanging pot stands.  They all add tons of life to the different displays.

Pot Placement.

Make sure you don't place the patio pots where people will trip over them.  They should be secured if placed on a ledge where they could be pushed off and get damaged.  Always try to go to the edge of patios, safely away from doorways and sidewalks.  Line them up against a wall or fence where they won't be in the way.  When done, make sure to walk the area to confirm that they placements are in the best possible place, safely out of the way.

So, when heading to the local nursey for plant materials, take your time, plan in advance and go for color & variety.  That way you will create successful pottery plants that you can be proud of all season long.

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:35:45 PM 
 
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Lets talk Terra-cotta Part 3

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28
4/28/2010 4:05:07 PM

For our last post on the different types of terra-cotta clay – we must consider Mexican clay. 

The Mexican clay products that we import are made of heavy, dark clay.  They are very distinctive and well known for their color and feel.  Very rough, porous and many times lined with tar, these pots have a distinctive design to them. Because each one is usually handmade the designs are very unique.  Since the clay is so porous the manufacturer paints the inside of each pot with a tar mixture that helps to repel the water.  However, we have found that unless the outside is also sealed the pot will deteriorate rapidly, many times, in just one planting season.   
We sell a terracotta sealer that helps to prolong the life of terracotta clay and we feel it is a must for anything make with Mexican clay.

Since the look of these items are so unique they are very popular with decorators and landscapers.  You can’t get the same patterns etc with Chinese or Italian pottery.  We also get all of our strawberry jars and hose pots from Mexico since none of our other manufacturers make them.   When considering a price point, the Mexican clay can’t be beat. 

On a scale from Best to Worse – when it comes to durability – the Mexican terracotta is considered the worse and least likely to hold up past one planting season.  So, use annuals  or perennials flowers that will only last one season.

We love the Mexican terracotta designs, we love their products but when it comes to durability these are not the pieces to plant in. 
Use them sparingly in your garden and yard areas and plan on replacing them every few years.


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:35:14 PM 
 
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Lets talk Terra-cotta Part 2

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22
4/22/2010 5:33:40 PM

In the last post we talked about Italian terracotta.  Now let’s talk about the other main types of clay pottery that you will find at Arizona Pottery.

Arizona Pottery imports clay from China.  These pieces of pottery are made of heavier clay than the Italian.  After being fired in mud kilns, these pieces have a rough texture to them.  They also display what we call a “whitewashed” finish.  It looks almost like a powder finish.  When these clay pots are sealed they look darker and a lot of that whitewashing disappears.  Because these Chinese pots are very porous they will absorb a lot of moisture which will contribute to a faster deterioration process. 
Of course sealing the pots prior to planting will slow that process down.

One a scale from Best to Worse – Chinese terracotta is considered middle of the road.  Not a nice as Italian but not as bad as others.  A simple reason why we love the Chinese terracotta pottery is that they make wonderful designs.  You will find exotic basket weave patterns, cherubs, swags and medallions.  There workmanship is lovely and the styles are unique.

Seal these planters, store them for winter if possible and you will be very pleased with their performance in your garden and yard areas.


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:34:40 PM 
 
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Lets talk Terra-cotta Part 1

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16
4/16/2010 4:38:56 PM


The definition of the word terracotta is - fired clay, brownish-red in color when unglazed, that is used for architectural ornaments and facings, structural units, pottery, and as a material for sculpture. 
A brownish-orange color like that of unglazed terra cotta.

 

Arizona Pottery imports terracotta pottery from Italy, China, Indonesia, and Mexico.  There are few if any American manufactures left.  Each country has its own way of harvesting clay that is used in the forming process. 

 

The Italian pottery we import is well known in the pottery industry for having a nice smooth feel to the touch.  The sun baked color is even toned and stunning.  Each pot is close to identical and the manufacturing process is unsurpassed.  These pots are hard packed which makes them less porous and therefore more durable.  Because of the compacting process they will absorb less water and will not breakdown as fasts as other processes.  They are a low-fired pot.

 

Terracotta clay is meant to breathe.  This is a definite advantage when it comes to a healthy plants root system.  Since it is porous any water you apply to the potted soil will be absorbed into the clay.  That is why you may end up with lines around the body of the pot.  These lines can be caused from the water applied to the soil, any chemicals naturally in the water - like salt or chemicals in the fertilizer that may be used when potting your plants.

Once a pot is being used it will break down naturally over time.  We sell a pottery sealer that helps to prolong the life of the clay but doesn’t stop the lines referred to above from occurring.  Terracotta pottery is meant to break down over time.  This is a good thing! 

If you want a pot that will look as good as the day you purchased it – then terracotta pottery is NOT for you.   
We would suggest a pot that is made out of a material that does NOT absorb water like concrete, glazed, poly resin and more types of materials.

 

Interestingly, many manufacturers today are using a powder clay mix to make their pottery out of.  The Italian pots we sell are made out of clay that has been harvest from the ground.  Real, beautiful and old school!  Just the way we like it.  So keep this in mind when comparing prices with other terracotta products.

My next post will talk about the other countries manufacturing process when making their terracotta pots.

Have you noticed a difference between Italian clay and other countries? 
Share your container gardening experiences with us!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:34:10 PM 
 
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Welcome to the Pottery Post Blog

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9
4/9/2010 3:50:18 PM


Welcome to the Arizona Pottery Blog “The Pottery Post”

We may be a little behind the times when it comes to starting a company blog, but we are looking forward to sharing tons of information that we have acquired over the last 10 years that we have been in the Home & Garden Pottery business.

1.  Pottery tips – Everything from how to seal a piece of clay pottery - to the best way to store garden pottery during the winter months.

2.  New Articles – When ancient pottery shards are found in Archaeological digs to a husband getting hit with a garden pot by his wife.  If it’s in the news we will know about it.

3.  Gardening information - How to plant veggies in pots, or herbs to use when preparing food.   We are current on the latest gardening methods and want to share some of the exciting things going on in Urban Gardening and more…..

4.  Arizona Pottery news – Want to know what is new in garden planters and what we will be selling BEFORE others hear about it?  We’ll come here to find out!  We are constantly searching for new and unique items to share with our customers and want them to be the first to have the latest new items.

Our mission at Arizona Pottery is to provide Home & Garden Pottery that is uniquely styled,  reasonably priced, with huge inventories to shop from.  We want to be your one stop shop for all your pottery needs.
 

This company blog is just another tool to let you – our most prized customers- know that we are here to help.  Talk to us, comment on the posts, email, call us at 800-420-1808 and let us know what we are doing right or wrong.

We want to hear from you!

By Pam Brooks
Post Last Updated: 1/14/2013 3:33:31 PM 
 
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